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just disconnect your battery when you do it, resistance in the airbag circuit is the same - assuming you'll fit it properly - no light should illuminate. An easy swap, took me about 3 hours, didn;t even need to jack the car up
Pretty sure he just means that this kind of modification is quite fun/impractical. not like pure performance modification. So it's the people that don't take themselves too seriously that tend to go with that kind of modification. get it? i'd expect a stripped out 172 turbo and a complete track...
Very simple answer will solve this one.
My top display lights have completely gone out, i am 99% sure it is the fuse because i read a thread on it not 2 days ago.
However, i have been searching cs for the last 10 mins and can't find that thread.
Anyone spare a link?
would be one more mod than i have now, bell are about £30 a mod so churns it up to £535,
my cheapest quote for a 172 is £1653
and for £29.95 i can have all my mods covered
unless repping my 1.2 is gonna gost £1000 the first year, £400 the next year and £200 the year after, + £70 a year in tax + petrol i think repping is cheaper. Not going to but i looked into it in great detail
This could be the problem! i've ruled out almost everything else, fiddled with head unit etc.
I am earthing it to the top of the suspension mount at the back. i got impatient :o. didn't realise an good earth made a difference
whats a recomended earth?
The blue LED power light illuminates when the ignition is on.
What is protection mode?
the sub and amp are both built into a box so i can only assume they wired the sub into the amp (it's this one)
^ this deal came with all the wires and is brand new so i am assuming the fault does not lie...
Right here i go again...
I have a brand new sub and amp combo,
Things wired up;
Power to amp from battery
Earth to body of car
Aux to the power-in thing so that the amp only turns on when ignition is on.
+ - SW out of back of head unit (red and white) to + - on amp for sub (red and white)...
Right i have the bog standard 300w sub and amp in the boot, wired it all up except for the power for the amp.
My wire is currently in the passenger footwell and getting through into the engine bay looks like a nightmare!
my best guess is to drill through the rubber bung for the boot release...
This should be a quick and stupid question.
I have a headunit, with that outer cage that slides off. Does this just push in to the slot for the headunit?
sorry schoolboy :cool:
leave it alone. It was his "prodject"
Also it's been striped out, i assume this refers to the red and yellow stripes?
+ has he ever heard of sentences?
You'll probably get destroyed with the school boy characteristics of this question but i'll keep it simple.
expect to pay £10 from the scrappy, you will need to align the center of the splitter to the center of your front bumper, fix it, cut the excess from each edge. It is significantly...
Quick update.
Have done some purchacing! new bulbs, number plates, headunit, and potentially some tastey new wheels to come. (just bulbs fitted so far - the rest are crimbo pressies)
Some recent shots:
Oh and this :rasp:
Ok, so i'm planning to fit 16" standard sport wheels to my non-sport - heres the catch/cool part - with my 25mm spacers.
I assume these will need camber? especially at the back?
And schoolboy - How do you get camber on clios?