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The whole rack? That seems like a lot of effort. It was my understanding that people were using the standard rack but with the saxo pump. I'm concerned about the belt setup though.

Have you got any more information? What kind of belt setup did you run? When you say it is EPAS, are you talking about an electric pump or a motor assisted system like the Vauxhalls have?

The other option is of course to get rid of the PAS completely and dump a 1.2 rack in there. But how does the gearing of the racks compare? Is the 1.2 one much slower?

Mine is on the way out - whining like mad! This gave me the idea of perhaps opting for a slightly more reliable electric pump, but I'm curious if anyone has ever.... A. Removed the PAS pump while retaining aircon. B. Replaced it was an electric pump. If the answer is yes, what did you do...

Not really, if I'm honest. Like I suspected, it just highlights the need for a sub now.

Pretty small update, changed the headlight washers for blanks - not bad paint match for a DIY rattle can job in the middle of winter, either. Untitled by mikehiow, on Flickr

Yes.

Make sure you choose someone competent to do your cambelt. All tensioners, crank bolt and auxbelt is a must. I'd say given the cost of doing the cambelt, it's also worth doing the dephaser and waterpump at the same time.

This will depend entirely on the kind of roads you travel and you driving style. But stuff like what you have in the car, fuel and tyres can have an impact, too. I travel on busy A-roads to work and usually average around 30MPG these days. Reports of 35 and 40 MPG will be on a decent run.

Pretty sure all 182s are Titanium? Next week I'll have a picture of mine sporting Red Oz F1s :P

Well, the crank sensor was a long shot really. I had issues where the car wouldn't start the first turn of the key, but always immediately on the second turn - there seems to be loads of threads on here pointing toward the crank sensor. Given the vibration sounded a bit like a mis-fire, I had...

As per the title really. My steering rack appears to have developed a slight knock when moving the wheel side to side. The only time it's really been touched was when it was unbolted to drop the subframe when changing my gearbox. The knocking appears to be internal to the rack. I have two...

I'm not sure if it was pulling the engine forward, changing the crank sensor or a mixture of both, but the previously observed knocking when pulling off enthusiastically and vibration at high revs has gone completely. I'm one step closer to having NO problems again. :D

About 2 minutes after this post, I had a proper look and figured out that the top of the mount sits on top of the battery tray, so those little 13mm nuts just hold it from moving forwards and backwards. Undone, sharp pull forwards and done up again - sorted. I'll report back as to whether...

I'm getting some vibration from what I think is the exhaust hitting the subframe. I've moved the engine mount as far forward as it will go, but it is still there. I'm trying to work out how the upper gearbox mount works and if there is any adjustment on that, but failing miserably. So my...

I'd be looking for a dodgy earth somewhere.

I recently did brand new cup shocks, sportlines, top mounts, poly wishbone, arb and dogbone bushes, ball joints and trackrods. It's like driving a different car - the difference was awesome. I could do with some engine mounts now, mind.

The inboard arb bushes aren't that bad - I'd recommend disconnecting the whole thing, then if you do them first they are easy to tighten up with the aid of a pry bar to close up the bracket

Have you tried doing it with the engine running for some help from the servo? I had the same issue, and I tried everything from that to setting off the ABS with the load sensor unhooked and maxed out. I never got it 100% until I bothered pressure bleeding.

You're going to see far greater gains in tightening up the feel of the car with Wishbone bushes than the ARB.

I did it for fun and frolics.

On the race car? What were the differences both in the drive and lap time? I don't dispute it's an additional adjustment, but it's a pretty fine adjustment, surely? I'm happy to be proved wrong with raw evidence such as back to back lap times under the same driver/car.

Correct, which essentially already has an arb - it's stiff enough to lift a wheel at a whim so I'm not convinced a white line "arb" is doing its job - there needs to be significant flex in the first place for load transfer to happen, no? Has anyone ever actually put it through back to back...

You can't see the issue with an antirollbar that mounts to nothing but a single moving suspension component?

I'm extremely surprised that someone such as yourself is recommending an anti roll bar that bolts to nothing but a one piece rear beam.

I have 182 cup springs for sale - I think they're the same as the 172? In the for sale section for £40.

That's interesting brillco - now you've mentioned that, I'm almost certain this is the issue as it would have been turned a few times while we were trying to figure out whether the airbag cables etc. could be removed. Out of curiosity, do I need to replace the whole unit to replace the...

Hi Mick, thanks for your reply. The that clock wheel part of the whole column unit? I assume it's all replaced as one?

The newer Vauxhalls flash their brake lights under heavy braking. My Corsa VXR did it, although only the high level brake light.

Fair enough, I'd still avoid them in favour of a rubber bush unless the car was never going to see the road.