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For 5k, I'd have all the tools I wanted and a nice motorbike with the change.

Not willy waving at all, but like I pointed out earlier, 601s can be had for the same money, are more common and vastly more appropriate for the purpose...

DM600 speakers are tiny and mainly used as rears, or fronts in tiny rooms. Since the OP hasnt provided ANY details on room size, shape etc it's hard to know, but I run DM601 in one room and DM 602.5 floorstanders in another and both are technically undersized. Speaker cable is generally snake...

I like the wharfedale diamond 9s, but I bought a pair along with some Gale 3010s and I actually preferred the gales. Apart from weighing about twice as much, they just seemed a nicer product with a more rounded sound. For a normal living room both are a little small, so I'd maybe try the 4010s

Buy used for a start. Depending on what your budget is, what size of room you have, what you intend doing with the system in the future, but I recently put together: Pair of B&W 601 S3 bookshelf speakers - £50 with damaged tweeters New tweeters - £50 Onkyo 608 - £125 or buy one of the audio...

Makes life a little easier, both from a reversibility point of view and also legality, since frame mods are a bit of a no no.

It seems they vary, but bare frames on many cubs are like this: This is a 50, but it was the best I could find: So people bob the tails like this: It seems some of them however came with a different frame: Which sounds like what you're describing?

Not after you've taken an angle grinder to the rear end it isnt

I did wonder, looks cool without them and it simplifies the switchgear a little too

😂😂 FFS Yeah a pass is always a good feeling and at least it's an easy thing to fix. Nice price on the MOT too. Around here £54 seems to be the going rate unless Kwik Fit.

Love these, but there are surprisingly few proper build threads. Some questions if you please! Where are the indicators on the green bike? Whats the difference in the front forks (internal and external springs?) I assume the green one is a later bike, which is why the side covers are more...

Congrats on a pass! I'd be getting new tyres on it ASAP if theyre worn that low! For all the money you spend on cars I can't believe youre razzing around on cracked bald fronts and some budget rears http://www.tyrepress.com/2017/02/auto-bild-summer-tyre-test-the-20-finalists/

I'm going to have a random stab in the dark at an RS4...

They just have a feature that requires oil with a high shear resistance. All PD engines do. You can buy any PD suitable oil, but quantum from TPS is about the cheapest you'll get anyway short of buying in bulk.

My bora would do 53 up the same road at 72 on cruise and that had also done 200k so it's definitely not right.

So wait two months and you'll have saved that by running the Alpina instead of the RS3

Very nice indeed, and definitely the style I'd be going for with my time again!

I always go for plain acrylic. My new car came with pressed plates and the front one is dented, stonechipped and starting to corrode

@Waitey you get two types of cage padding, the soft stuff you have is for around door openings and stuff to save you banging your knee etc as you get in (low speed impact) and the stuff @harvsurrey is referring to is a really dense hard foam which is designed to spread the load of high speed...

A nice save after some unfortunate luck!

Last I looked, the kit parts were around 6k and left you needing engine, gearbox, diff and a multitude of other bits. And of course you then dont build to the spec of what you bought, you fit nice wheels and seats and a cage like you're doing now along with the inevitable damper upgrade...

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/individual-vehicle-approval-inspection-fees/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-inspection-fees-from-1-october-2014#iva-passenger-vehicles Same as theyve been for ages. it's not the test fee itself that would put me off, its the faff of fitting loads of...

I looked and looked and decided for a daily that a good new dmf was much more sensible as it was a known quantity

Really depends what you mean. My most used/relied upon tools, which I like for their quality is probably my halfords socket set from years ago, the proper one with the deep sockets and so on. These have been responsible for rebuilding countless cars, engine swaps, roadside fixes in the alps...

for your road car, OE cup dampers and cooksport or Eibach springs. Use the savings over coilovers to upgrade your track car to decent coilovers imho. Put cup wishbones with new OE bushings on both. For the rest, Lemforder or TRW or whatever. Ive found these guys well priced...

As @TomSx says, the map makes a night and day difference. Its not the extra top end, its the way the car drives in the midrange. It would be a waste to own one and not map it IMHO TBH, once you have the box off, I'd never risk not replacing the flywheel and slave cylinder too. They come as a...

Everything needs a place and it needs to be accessible. Finding/making a place for everything takes ages but it's worth it. Cupboards beat shelves for keeping things clean Try to be a little diligent about putting stuff away, a plastic toolbox for the tools you're using for a job and then...

I had my PD130 on a hybrid turbo doing about 220 and fitted a standard spec Sachs clutch and DMF because it was a daily commuter. As long as you dont drive around flat to the boards at 1800 rpm in 6th itll be fine. That said, one with 130k on it wont.

I always wind up buying ex commercial machines and then upgrading the hard drive to SSD and maxing out the ram. It tends to be the most economical way to a machine with a decent case construction and processor spec, with lots of ram and a quick hard drive. Sadly that spec tends to shove you...

No, thats for a set, not each...