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Yep twingo rack is yours if you want it. £45 delivered
Tie rods went straight on and it fits the existing sub frame holes
Column also bolts on fine
Just too much work for me to correct the angle etc..
Shims would work but there's not much room to manoeuvre
Just read that the 1.2 epas rack is the same turns lock to lock anyway due to it running epas
That rack will bolt straight on
Then ill just get column and ecu from same car. Jobs a good un
Wish I'd done that first :(
The problem is that it doesn't push up against the bulkhead so the rubber doesn't seal the gap
You can't use the rubber gaiter on the bottom of the steering column either because the pinion doesn't sit in the middle of the hole in the bulkhead
I'm also not sure you can just make the hole bigger...
Yeah I've got a flaring tool and a roll of brake pipe - is that the stuff you use?
I don't know whether to just buy a cheap DCi rack and whack it on so that it's back on it's wheels
The alternator belt that you recommended worked perfectly so at least that's done LOL
Just wanted the ability to vary the amount of assistance on the steering
Seemed like a good idea but 7hrs later, lots of swearing and bleeding its been a complete waste of time and money
No idea what to do now
It does bolt straight to the subframe but the pinion comes through virtually touching the top of the metal hole in the bulkhead
I'd have to grind an inch or two out the top of it for clearance
Also the steering column is about 3-4" too long to connect to the pinion and despite it looking...
Well to anyone still wondering. The twingo rack doesn't fit, not even close.
And the 172 rack only really comes out if you chop all the pas pipes.
Kinda left with a car on axel stands now with no steering.
Pretty pissed off :(
Errrr nut on the inner tie rod? do you mean on the end of it - the track rod end?
I'm pretty sure if you heat it up you'll be able to remove it without knackering the thread, and if you do knacker the thread I'd spend £40 an put a new inner tie rod on rather than "re-thread" it - it's a...
^^ What he said lol
Jack the whole car up - all 4 wheels off the ground
Put a trolley jack under the rear beam to support it - undo the top nuts on the rear shocks - then lower the rear beam with the trolley jack until the springs fall out
Unbolt the bottom of the rear shocks from the beam...
I think if you're going to keep it completely non-PAS then the DCi or 1.2 rack is ideal as I think they are more turns lock-to-lock so you won't need massive arms to turn, but I'd prefer to keep the quick cup steering as shifting hands around on the wheel on track drives me nuts
Billies aren't much of an upgrade over the spax
I'd say they're better build quality wise but the lack of adjustability is annoying as hell
KW V2's are about the next step up - but they're £1200. The ones I've got on mine now are 6-9months old and literally might as well be new, not even...