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Not keen on the fogs or the angled number plate thing - the chrome looks so wrong on a black bumper Bargain passat - I have the same shape one in a 1.9TDi 4motion config and it cost me £3600 LOL!

:)

That's quite interesting - I have some toe shims from K-Tec I was going to try on the rear but they're cheap plastic things and wasn't sure if they'd make much difference

You might in the future also consider specifying whether you mean discs, calipers or pads :)

That's properly quick in the video - fair play I'm not sure I'd be happy running without a speedo and rev counter - you not thought about just wiring a simple stack dial in ?

Doms - not sure mate have a search on google. They are expensive and pretty hard to come by. I was lucky to find one 2nd hand on here Sonny - At the moment you need arms like superman lol but I'm sure when the EPAS is powered up it'll be cool.

Heheh yeah - I was considering buying tax next week but because they back date it that would mean paying them 2 weeks for nothing. I hate paying tax as it is Plus I only want to put 6 months on as it will be having a new engine at the end of that

That was going to be my plan last night - pull it up with a bar and try and pinch it in place with a 13mm nut+bolt - but it's not road taxed anyway till end of the month so I decided to just be patient and wait for the proper bit to turn up lol

Well the EPAS conversion is now complete It's a bit of a saga so you can read the full thing here -> http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?687703-EPAS-on-172-Cup&highlight=epas But I've basically ended up with a DCi rack (2.7turns lock-to-lock same as Cup), brand new inner tie...

Update GSF got the right tie rods in for me - and thanks to Swede Cup on CS they're exactly right for the cup Fitted those to the rack last night, fitted the new track rod ends to the same position as on the old rack so hopefully that'll be "ok" to get me going until I can get the geometry...

LOL it's funny because it looks identical to mine - I reckon we could do a Spa day later in the year and have 4 identical looking cups

What timing!!!

I've got the rear to about 3/4 stiff at the moment and the front on about half - definitely doesn't understeer anymore on the road Will probably crack it up to stiffest on the rear when I get to cadwell

Yeah the BTCC team I was with last year had 2 metal bars with marks on that they tied fishing line around - they'd gone to the hassle of making the bars slot into the chassis on the car so it was dead central - but reading on the net the method of metal bars on axel stands that you parallel to...

It has had a proper geo done - but no the tyres are shitty uniroyal road tyres I'm whacking a set of RSR's on my credit card before Cadwell I think lol The geo setup on the hunter system in Lincoln costs me like £70 a go I want to try setting up the toe with the string method as I've...

That's what I'm gonna try next. Got cadwell evening session booked for May 15th - just gonna go up there with my coilover spanners and try a load of different settings on the KW's Now i've ditched the bilsteins I can actually play with damping rates and heights to see if I can dial out the...

Talking of uprated bushes/bearings - I've just seen that PMS now do uprated bearings for their top mounts http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/details.php?itemid=179 Might be worth a try I think as the standard ones are quite loose and have a bit of play in them - although at £50 per side maybe...

You'll be fine with that kit The 172, 172 cup and 182 all use 54mm bolt spacing on the front struts. It's just the 182 cup/trophy that is different (60mm) and virtually no-one makes any coilovers for 182 cups. Top mounts I'd use pure motorsport stuff - it's fantastic...

Swede - got a whiteline ARB - fitted it years ago. It did make a huge difference but the front has always still felt vague and understeery Tony - uh huh hahaa

Bodies do sound awesome yes - but realistically for a jenvey setup even 2nd hand with Omex you're looking at around £1600 - new that's more like £2k By the time you've got it mapped and bought the ancillaries etc it's a £2.5k conversion The RS2 was a carbon inlet manifold developed by...

Fully agree with Chip A mate of mine in Lincoln had an RS2 on his trophy - stripped with cage same as my 172 cup I'm running bodies On a "private road" rolling 40mph start there wasn't much in it I did over 90mph start to pull away but I certainly wouldn't be unhappy with 190bhp and an...

Wow lot of questions They're nearly £100 cheaper here -> http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=239606 No they don't come with drop links - 172 doesn't have drop links the ARB bolts directly to the wishbone Nothing else is needed it's a direct swap. If...

There should be a massive banner on the top of this site that says "Listen to Tony" lol I replaced bottom ball joints and track rod ends last year and it did help - but I didn't even realise the rack itself could have play in it or the inner tie rods were a serviceable item I'm pretty sure...

Absolutely spot on! Made me actually LOL

I remember thinking the same thing on my 106 - did a full overhaul of all the bushes (rear beam, front arms etc...) and fitted all new steering components - went out and the thing was so tight and precise. Finally understood the episode of top gear where they rated it the 2nd best car in the...

Collected my Firstline tie rods today from GSF - FTR5277 - Massive thanks to Swede Cup they are identical copies of the Cup tie rods - same length etc... The ball joint is so tight I can't flex them whereas the ones off my car are flopping all over the place LOL Can't wait to get it back on...

I asked Bimarco about replacing the actual covers on them (as I wanted to swap to the RenaultSport logo ones) - they replied saying the fabric is glued to the fiberglass shell so cannot be replaced

Just done this on my cup again yesterday - it's not a hard job really There's 2 bolts holding the ball joint to the wishbone - slacken those off - remove the 17mm pinch bolt that goes through the bottom of the strut Then hammer a fork splitter inbetween the hub and ball joint till it pops...

Ahh brilliant I'll grab some heavy duty cabling and crimps at lunch - run the power wire from the megafuse in the engine bay I guess I can run it from the battery side of the fuse as it has it's own 60a fuse in-line Earth I assume will be ok going to the dashboard cage like the other...

The wonky exhausts make my face hurt