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Looks like it needs the reload for the water properties, so not too dissimilar to C1+ C1.5 combo

Original C1 replacement?

I didn't look through the replies to start with, then went back in to see if anyone had asked the question. I want to but I can imagine the response.

I'm sure kev was saying they were bringing out a new one, unless the second one you linked is it With DW, I sometimes feel that people are too unsure of themselves to speak out against the norm

Meh, clay everything. It removes tar and tree sap in one go, no need for all these separate cleaning solutions

Not seen clay like that since I sorted out my wash stages. But I reckon it would have saved him time using tar and iron removers first and rinsing instead of working the clay like that. Must have taken him ages to fully clean the panel with clay alone I'd forgotten about Keg too, but felt he...

A diluted all purpose cleaner orator glym engine and machine cleaner worked in with a small detailing brush, then lightly rinsed or wiped clean. Black plastics once cleaned use a trim dressing, such as autofinesse revive or autoglyms offering

Now Keg, be careful with that, you shouldn't be pointing out to him a proper wash and decontamination stage would have removed the majority of that dirt before clay touched it

Think a lot of people were possibly thinking it, but most of us not have enough experience or knowledge to to take it any further than that

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=59865 http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=200193235395285698601.0004ab6f4155fb7fb3b1b&msa=0

Didn't the log in issues start before the waxstock thread? Plus you weren't the only one to deface DW. On a better note, car detailing is no longer a sub forum

Use a watery shampoo mix or quick detailed sprayed over part of the panel you're working the clay over. That way you're not rubbing dirt imbedded in the clay back over the panel, and will stop it from sticking or catching on the paint. As said keep refolding the clay to create a clean face, once...

But how long would you typically expect vics to resist the contaminants? I found 6weeks before it was past it. On my own car I could cope with regular top ups, but I wouldn't ever bother putting the effort in for someone else's car for that length of time

^ de cat fitted I presume? Couldn't be without ironX after fitting my decat

did like the vics red (preferred collectors yellow for its better flak pop) but the finish and water behaviour just didn't last long enough for my liking, whereas OC lasted that little bit longer, and now that the prices of the basic range has come down a little on i4d it's a lot more...

Once you've tried a soft or a hard wax, you've typically tried or there soft or hard waxes. I didnt personally notice too much difference between them. All give great initial glow and tight beading but didn't last all that long. That all said I'd reach for orange crush before vics concours

I fitted carbon diamonds, fog surrounds, exhaust surrounds and Clio badge to my LY. Ended up taking it all off and any silver badges or black plastics were primed and graphite grey. Looked.much better with just little touches Going for the bonnet, spoiler etc needs to be pretty special to...

Isn't the rupes machine a renamed 3m? Heard fairly good things about them

can never win with CYC in recent orders. but then don't most deliveries ask for a contact number???? why a quick 2minute phone call couldn't ask if you've made an order, if so who from, yes it is this persons package, please confirm delivery address. happy customer, no additional duties or...

typically a cleanser will have a small amount of filling ability, lime prime and rejuvenate both offer a good mix of filling and cleansing. then there are the likes of amigo and blackmax that mostly fill AFAIK but also cleanse. depending on the condition of the paint you may not get any more...

if you're using on your own car that is fairly well maintained, using the iron x soap gel becomes an option as it can be left to dwell a little longer and can be applied with a sponge (provided the car and sponge is clean) as the little aggitation helps. and use use an aweful lot less than the...

I had crystalising first time I used C4 from over application and leaving too long before buffing. they do recommend it's left to cure for some time at a stable temperature and climate so this may well contribute

what type of polishing marks are we talking about? white residue? if so as above or are the physical marks in the paint?

hard to really tell from a photo, but do you think it would really stand out on a metallic colour rather than flat? what was it like to apply

no it's not, you guys no nothing! I got the very best out of my rimming wax before it was sold and I've been told!

trouble with price from the supplier end I believe as I think the price has gone up a fraction since first release. Best to call / email as they may do a deal with additional non sticker set buckets I heard

:rasp: still stick to my comment of speed detailing a contradiction in terms, oh well bit of fun I guess

Beginner, low user or wanting to glaze or cleanse instead of full on correction = DA So much so I'm thinking of switching back to a DA from my rotary

On silvers and whites decon is most important before anything. Tar and iron removers defore claying is vital

Russ (or more Milly) was using some applicator swobs in the 200 silverstone edition detail IIRC. for a full size pot or the glasur pot, i was really suprised at how much nicer it was to use the AF waxmate applicator, bit of a gimmick and pricey maybe, but a tiny twist loads the whole applicator...