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there's not an exact one type for all technique, that's why it's not as easy as many would think. comes down to type of paint, pad, polish, machine. Hence why I paid and went on a training day.
area generally 1' x 1' (30cm)
pressure enough to change the tone in the machine but no more, I found...
If it's taking you an age with DA, it's still going to take you while with rotary, as 95% of it comes down to technique. Yes they can be a bit quicker I'm not exactly knocking hours of my time. So much so I haven't bothered to start correcting my current cars since selling the 182. So much so...
they're the 2oz tubs I think of the carbon, titanium and concours, Glasur is either 30 or 50ml. used very little of the carbon, concours and glasur as they've only done half a car max. Titanium was used to do a full car so still loads in there, maybe 80% or more. Concours is by far my favourite...
Used the P21 pre wax cleanser last night on the roof, is very nice to use by hand, fills quite nicely too. looked nice and glossy but didn't really allow for much flake pop.
topped with glasur now that I've bought a 2nd hand pot, so my zymol starter wax kit of carbon, titanium and concours...
they're not really colour specific TBH, depends on budget, expected durability, requirement of finish, current condition of paint etc
depending on what white, sealants can work well. for a basic easy to use combo, Autoglym SRP topped with either EGP or HD wax, or Autofinesse tripple all in one...
Use a diluted all purpose cleaner and a detailing brush or cotton buds. Something like daisy form a local supermarket for £1 will suffice. Just remember this.will probably do a good Job of removing waxes and sealants
think of them as different types of washes.
1 - the full strip, de contaminate, seal and protect. so use tar and iron removers, clay, black hole, and wax. do this to start then again when you feel the wax isn't doing it's job of protecting the car. dependant on the wax or sealant maybe anything...
cheaper and better value for money products can replace citrus power the will have better cleaning abilities. These will of course remove waxes or sealants whereas citrus power won't so depends on when and how often you plan to use it, have a look at autosmart G101, sold in 5l cans.
again tardis...
lazy detailing, surely that's as much a contradiction as the speed detailing comp on DW ;)
I can see the benefit with the long reach part, but would have thought they'd still be cheaper in B&Q / Homebase etc
recent orders will be the new formula I would have thought, which allows for longer drying times before buffing so a little easier to work with than the older formula. As side give it a good wipe down and partially re-apply. Just ensure it's left to fully dry for a good few hours before any...
when was it bought? do you know if it is the old or new formula? I had issues on my front grille. Was the 1st time I'd applied it and turned out I applied a little too much left too long before I buffed off the residue. Will go over it again at some point.
I sometimes use Revive over the top as...
Kev's up to speed with the Nanolex range, but I believe there 'ultra' range is supposed to be the one although only there glass sealant seems to be available on i4d.
yeah pretty much every week unless I plan to strip the car then I don't use it. sometimes as a wheel cleaner when I'm not using the pressure washer as the wheels are sealed. I did here that in its concentrate form it was pretty potent and may have caused some issues
after washing and before claying, have a look into iron x to be used after tardis. these will help remove a lot of rubbish before claying.
2 ways, corrective polishing or filling the swirls. By hand you will struggle to get a decent level of correction, but if it is something you want to...
it doesn't spread quite so well on textured plastics as it does on painted panels / wheels IMO.
On that amount of plastic I don't think I would ever want to be reapplying every few weeks or months depending on product. Worth every penny when you see the difference there
Re: CLIO IV RS for 2013, Last news
at least with out a manual clutch the mechanically inept won't be destroying gearboxes. I'm quite curious how much strain is managed on full rev shifts. I'd imagine it's been designed to reduce as much as possible
Not done much with cleaning up exhausts other than the shiney tips, but how would autosol or mercury cope with the headaer pipe of a motorbike? An example picture of one in good condition below, the bikes I'm looking at aren't this clean
only used poly clay once, was so amazed at its performance I rushed up to halfords and bought the megs kit just so I could finish the car.
Guess I should try and sell them on for postage, someone might find them usefull. Starting to consider selling my zymol start kit on if anyone would be...
I missed that one. It's probably one of the worst products I've ever bought, should have realised it might not be up to much when it's sold in the local A1 motorstore
maybe someone should enter under the name of billy or bumder????? competition seemed a bit of a contradiction of detailing IMO. Oh well, not going so no rim-ming wax for me
I don't think he would have used the soap gel through a lance, but will have a search.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?647765-Making-White-Champion-again-Honda-Integra-Type-R-DC5-Auto-Finesse-Power-Seal!!&p=8784186&highlight=Snow+soap#post8784186
the one pictured in your link is...
right, holding off an order, but......
rejuvenate or tough prep? I've still got the tripple and P21's in my collection
Russ used the snow soap and needed to use standard ironx spray after IIRC. Had pictures in one of his detail threads recently