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Flex is the red one and festool the grey?
Flex was very nice to use, hold, general feel and weight. Festool was as good but couldn't see the diference considering the price increase. Flex was definitely worth the extra to the 3m in my mind if you'll be a regular user
all this talk and recent purchases JD? anyone would think you're planning on selling the car??? used my full pot of glasur a lot recently, and I think I prefer the harder waxes so contemplating keeping the concours and selling glasur on again
back on topic, I can only comment on the 800, but...
I did at one point wonder if Dom opposite had some involvement as the products coming out seemed straight on the money, but in fairness you did hand me samples to try out, some of which were pre release and not the final product once I actually bought bottles proving product development that...
Re: Light Correction Detail - RenaultSport Clio 200 Silverstone Number 50/50 - Hard B
Looks really glossy for silver although not seen this colour in the flesh. Lovely work
Prep for any of the nano sealants like c4 needs a spotless base. So after decontamination the surface you need some like IPA or panel wipe to remove oils etc. Then you have to be pretty sensible with application. It's pretty fussy, but once on properly will outlast 99% of everything else on the...
Tar removers will do a good job at removing a lot of the wax, but may not remove it altogether. So I'd be re waxing after using it.
But in my opinion, if tar is sticking to the paint, your wax and sealant is showing good signs that it's past its best. If it were one or two spots then, but a...
if it's applied properly with the necessary prep, C4 is worth it as a long term dressing. if you want something that you don't have to worry about prep and don't mind applying every few months look at AF revive
Difference being you know they'll just washoff instead of needing hours of prep. When you really look into detailing and say to yourself, is it really worth it, knowing it's sealed and resisting the current rubbish thrown up form the roads and it all just washes off. All the neighbours cars are...
for hand use I stick to P1
http://gtechniq.com/shop/3s-for-cars/polishing/p1-nanocomposite-polish/
and it just so happens I have some up for sale ;)
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?655914-detailing-car-cleaning-bits-Zymol-Gtechniq-Permanon-etc
I know you say you want rid of the orange peel, but have you tried a proper compounding polish on the paint either by hand or machine polisher? as you can still get fantastic gloss and reflections from corrected paint that still has terrible orange peel.
The fact you say it is quite dull sounds...
C1.5 is the same as c4 and 5, now all the same new formula. Don't think any of them still use the old formula
Its easier to apply than the old formula, but doesnt perform as well so I'm lead to believe
what else did you put on the pad other than the polish? any water sprays or QD's etc, if it were that wet just from the polish then try cutting down on the polish once you've primed it
you need to keep working it until it breaks down and starts to dry to a haze on the panel, until it starts to do that don't start to step it down. sounds like maybe too much product or the pad too wet. Did you get a lot of product spray or sling?
Have another bash and tweek your technique on...
nano sealants aren't really an easy step into detailing, and also require a lot more prep to get the perfect base especially compared to werkstatt or toughcoat
I'm always way out with the guess how many.....
but in fairness I already have all of the above, bar a few bits that I've loaned to friends to try out. just don't leave spirit on the panel too long or it can be difficult to remove
Main thing with silver and white cars is the decontamination, so a good pre rinse and wash, check out Gallys stickys at the top of the section, then you need to look into tar and glue removers (Tardis) and iron and fallout removers (iron-X). then look into using a clay bar to remove the remains...
look like these ones with the elastic strip to help keep a hold of them, not quite as plush as the megs applicators but nice to use
http://i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Wax___Sealant_Applictor_Pad.html
Do you have an aftermarket exhaust already? If not get a decent stainless system and enlarge the cat to exhaust join, just as much gain and no hassle come MOT
I wasn't overly impressed with the gains from my decat. Got more from my V6 mailbox
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?655914-detailing-car-cleaning-bits-Zymol-Gtechniq-Permanon-etc&p=8906435#post8906435
a link to my detailing items for sale as some asked. Zymol / Gtechniq / Permanon etc
I've used GTechniq W2 and I1 for cleaning and sealing soft tops, seemes to work pretty well. Just scrub the W2 in with a firm brush and rinse thoroughly, then once dry applied plent of I1
P.s. where's JD?
Your inbox is full
I would normally apply it to every panel than back to the first to start removing. doesn't need long as you say once it's dried to a haze it's ready. I did purposefully leave it on a panel and was still no issue to remove.
before starting to hide it, you need to clean the trim properly to remove the polish residue, an all purpose cleaner, pencil eraser, peanut butter should clean them up.
once there properly clean, then look for a trim dressing, although I would only recommend autofinesse revive or GTechniq C4...