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well if the engine is running it's shouldn't drop too far below 13v
other wise you are discharging your battery and it will die
90A @ 12v is only 1080W + you alt won't be able to do full output current at idle
yeah 1000w RMS output from an amp will pull anywhere between 90 and 140A
if there only fused @ 30A mate you'll be fine
upgrade your big three and you'll be fine trust me
mate they wont be woth 30 quid
the 600-800watts it going to be about 100w RMS tops
(as you can see i put rms in red as this is the only figure to look at when matching subs to amp and vice versa)
Network Access : Enabled Maximum Downstream Data Rate : 10240000 bps Maximum Upstream Data Rate : 512000 bps Maximum Number of CPEs : 1 Software Upgrade File Name : ntlhm100_ntl0002.cpr...
yeah i was going to control it with reference to the temp of the hot side heat sink.
it is just going to be used as a cooler and not a heater.
i bought the cooler off ebay it seems ok not got it set up yet to put any sort of current through it yet.
ahhh now that would telling
(it's to control a TEC in a little project i got brewing in my mind lol)
give me 400v 230v 110v and i know what i'm doing but electronics is a bit beyond my skills