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as long as the volume is right it can be any shape you want

smart arse i'd call them a metal hallide discharge lamp:clown: look here

nah f**k a bass controller just set it up when the bass level on your h/u is set to max then if there is too much bass you can turn it down

easy peasy with an alpine unit that is a 9813 or better into a set of comps

i had toyo's on my clio before my f1's i think they may have been slighty better in the wet but they were still s**t but the f1's are great:D

yeah i thought the s/pdif is how the info is sent rather than what cable it uses so you should be ok with any digital coax

lol i had this happen on my clio the other day f**ked me up because i didn't know whether to trust the gauge or the light:S fixed it by putting more fuel in

lock it with the button on the key then open it with the lock in the door

impossible to get those power figures without a smps which wont fit in a hu sorry

just a jl 1000/1 running at about 1200wRMS

i left the original ground in the car and placed an extra one over the top and that worked a treat iirc the alt output is 90A

MOSFET's have been used for years it's just that some companies don't mention it as it is not worth it

HU wouldn't be my choice as i prefer the crispness of alpines Comps what can i say both for £200

you will be telling him to get a power cap next:rolleyes:

you don't need 6x9's in any system no matter how much is being spent as 6x9's come with either 1 or 2 tweeters mounted on on top which is exactly where you don'y want treble to come from.

lol so all cars are the same because they have four wheels so how come you don't get treble over load with oem comps?:S decent comps come with adjustable x-overs so you can apply a -3dB output cut if they are too brash sub-bass should come from a sub and mid-bass should come from front comps...

listen to me get front comps and a new hu

the fronts are real poo get a new hu and comps as a start

some stand alone dvd players don't like +r mind does it work fine in your pc?

here?

How about one of these? they are really slim so just a cover in front should be sorted

yeah the ones you need to change are the 4 by the speedo and rev motor pins the 1 buy each of the fuel and termp motor pins and the six on the display you could have white leds and paint the needles red you can get the paint off the needles with some very very fine wet and dry (2400 grit)

insulation tape on the back of a fork then prise them off with that with them off it will just un-clip(you can see one in the bottom middle in the pic)

xmax of 12mm or 9mm (not too sure lol) xmech of 30mm xmech means you are driving it too hard and it will sound poo and trying to copy RE is terrible:rolleyes:

according to their website it was in 2000

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remember burr brown was taken over by TI and now just use the name (and not the quality)

there is a notch missing on the one corner denoting the cathode

wtf is in the center light??? is it a luxeon star???