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no,this needs to be fooled into thinking a cd changer is present,the update list unit has the function of a true aux in function on the headunit

they the only inputs? if so you could get 2 of the parrot plugs (i dont know the proper name for the connector) then wire them correctly to that plug or get the loom from pioneer

similar connection to the white 4 way connector on the blue box on this? each hole is a square

if no cabling is there,go back to the headunit and wire from there

what plug is it?think its din plug like the parrot kits?

sister company of vibe,get a refurbished vibe instead,fli are too temperamental for my liking

the voltage output will be much lower so the gain will have to be kept lower or clipping will occur, uprated unit is better the pioneers are a happy medium between standard speakers and amped upgrades :)

thats correct,the LOC changes it down from high input to low input or you could just send the speaker cable all the way to the amp and hook it up to the high input on the amp (if it has it) i absolutely love hertz and i cant even supply them

with the right amp and components it will give you the added bass to fill the void however it will never replicate a sub install. to convert standard headunit use a line output converter to change to phono matt

i would but ashamedly i dont know what gen is what myself :clown:

drop me a pm i can help you out

13cm all round,dash off is a 20minute job and will all look oem you can convert fine to pre-outs,but you'll lose the connectivity or rear speakers (unless you want to damage to oem headunit) sorry OEM+ install?

works fine with all other than iphone/touch/3rd gen nano,functionality is a bit hit and miss

www.fixmyradio.co.uk

so long as you dont keep wiggling it in it and dont touch the cable on more than 1 terminal youll be fine

you wont need to strip it you'll be able to just push the cable into where the terminal goes just to test it without stripping anything

strip back the cabling there and solder to it then tape it with self emalgamating tape or something else suitable (please dont use scotch locks)

varies from model to model plug 3 either pin 4 or 7 by this diagram if you dont have a multimeter youll know by hooking everything up and attaching the remote to one or the other,if it thuds when connected to one then thats the permanent,you'll need the other

you can use the ignition feed on the radio for the remote lead but itd be best to use a delayed relay so the sub doesnt go thud when you turn on the ignition

i know :( alpine have changed repair centre and they seem to be struggling to pull their fingers out their ass ive been waiting since december myself when i was first told they were available

422i is what you need,if you dont use cd's get an x001,im expecting a batch of refurbs from alpine as we speak

drop me a pm if you wish,im setting up a group buy on these within the next week

time and temp will be kept

custom fit for the rear is a waste of time companies wont do it,all it is is cut off the terminal block and fit new terminals

rated at 20w max iirc

few items about to do that.dension gateway plus cd changer retention lead or the other is by a company called kram iirc

wrong 4x100w max 4x45w rms Ross read your packaging

theyd be fine there,they are sealed unitsso long as they arent swimming in the door panel theyll be fine the phono car speakers i cant comment on, never used,seen,heard or know of anyone using them,however for the "spec" they seem rather cheap

im running exactly the same setup as that jeep :P you just hook the filters up straight after the tweeter or woofer,so the oem wiring to tweeter,cut off the plug,wire in the filter and the tweeter,then the woofer disconnect the old one and cut off plug,wire in the filter and connect the new...

id say thats fair buddy goodj your alpine unit is 4x45w max,generally alpine 18w rms the ktp is a vast improvement over standard and is a good medium between no amp and full install