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I wouldnt worry to much, i drove mine unmapped pretty hard for a while with no ill effects.

Just remove one at a time and redo you won't need any sequence doing it that way.

My toyosport one kept charge temps well under control, costs £50 i think and fits perfectly behind the bumper. recommended.

Or if you dont have a low range torque wrench, finger tight + 1/4 turn has never failed me.

I crane engines in on the footpath outside my house like a boss, done it quite a few times, i get lots of funny looks and people wandering what im up to.

I've had mine tapped in the same place, 3/8" BSPT thread, and it uses a 1/2" hosetail.

If you hoist the engine up even at an angle where it sits the crank pulley and gearbox will wedge on the chassis. you need to hoist a little and then drag the crane away from the car to pull the engine forward then continue to hoist and it comes out far easier.

I guess you could do it, but it would be an utterly soul destroying experience.

How the f**k does fuel "reduce friction in critical areas", sounds like a crock of marketing BS to me.

14mm Hex for depahser bolt cover, and 18mm for the pulley bolts.

Ahhh i remember those push fittings, i blew one off and left myself stranded on a back road for 3 hours. never ever again. Pre made lines alllll the way. I wouldnt not be happy with those unless they are FULLY seated butted all the way back touching the plastic red part. Adbmittantly mine...

MIght need to take it from the coil pack, splice into the two switched earths with diodes.

Sounds highly realistic, yes.

Yeah absolute mare, that is the first thing i check when the engine is in the bay, wack the cable back on and check its operation feels right. Also when the box is on and your sure the fork is ok, use a couple of cable ties wrapped around the clutch fork and the gearbox cable eye to keep it in...

Briliant game, thoroughly enjoyed playing it on PC with the settings cranked up! Ended with 79% completion, not sure i can be arsed to get 100%.

Looking good keeping an eye on this :) As above you need valve cut outs or custom cam timing to stop valves hitting the pistons, i found this out the hard way.

Just sprayed mine with a bit of WD40 lol, no problems here.

I would use an ester based 5w-40 fully synth. Gulf competition, Motul 300V, Silkolene PRO S, Millers CFS. Some people make the jump to 10w-50 but i wouldnt say it was that essential.

Just buy a helix 4 paddle friction plate and use the OE cover plate, its tried and tested to hold ample power and torque. and costs £160 ish from memory.

Yeah they drive fine, but don't rely on it as your sole car, something will most probably go wrong at sometime.

Replaced the crankshaft oil seal behind the flywheel, i have never sworn so much in all my life.

Looks almost identical to my low boost turbo graph, fair play, i would say i bet it shifts, but i would know it does!

Changed the rev limiter to 7500rpm, 3 minutes later i was at the side of the road in a cloud of smoke. I blame poorer quality pattern part valves for the failure though.

mine blew up on the rev limiter :D probably why it looks so catastrophic lol, it certainly made quite some bang and a lot of smoke.

I'll trump you both ;)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110672856065?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648

mines 2.5" from the turbo to the tail pipe. Using Ktec Recessed exhaust (with centre silencer), although i have a piece of straight through pipe to replace it with for more turbo noises ;)

I modified clio ones, the injector has to be rotated at a certain angle for the metal lips to slot ok. THe top locating "pin" that pokes into a hole on the 172 injector is redundant and needs to be bent upwards to clear the injector. Then the metal tabs that sit either side of the the black...

Just use the turbo, im sure it will work perfectly.

Agreed, an interesting topic thats not really talked about much none the less.