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What should i use for decent sound in the front of my williams? bearing in mind you cant have front door speakers, only the 100mm ones in the dash.
Then what, disconnect the rear speakers or upgrade them? Then what about a sub, looking for one 12" in a sealed box really, dont want to carry...
http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/file.php?image=1051688672__KA_Trackrod.jpghttp://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/file.php?image=1051688672__KA_Trackrod.jpg
What was that about KAs? My one seems OK...!
What on earth will you achieve by running it that low? Youll just be scrapping the exhaust, sump and crossmember on the ground and knackering drive shafts, bushes and steering components etc etc...
Each to their own i suppose...! Me, id drop the ride height nearer 8mm and save a shed load of...
PCD is wrong as Daz says.
They wont go anywhere near.
Oh, and dont fit steelies if you drive hard as youll knacker wheel bearings with the heat the steel doesnt dissipate...
Depends if you want to do all the prep yourself.
If you strip the car then re-build it afterwards youll save a small fortune. If you cant do that for whatever reason youll pay best part of a weeks labour + the paint job depending who does it.
Ha ha! they look like the KA ones we bent when the timing chain snapped at 6500 rpm over the stage finish in the forest of dean!!
But the cam was in 3 pieces also and that wasnt good either.
What happened then mate???
Ahhhh, youvejust opened a huge can of worms that you should really close as soon as possible!
If your unsure about what your gonna need to compete, you wont ever do it.
If you seriously want to compete then i can let you know exactly what it is you will need and what itll roughly cost.
I...
Ditch the spare and the cage/bracket and get some foam if youre feeeling unlucky! May aswell, you dont want to knacker a tyre from it sitting flat for to long really...
CV boots split, especially if you run low or corner hard all the time. Then you get the usual, grease comes out and CV joint siezes up. I replaced both my shafts in the summer as one joint went and i like new parts!
Cost about £60 each on exchange i think. Easy to change just dont strip the...
Havent got buckets in my 16v because of the reasons above! Had harnesses in it for a while and then reverted back to standard cos they are annoying.
I have got buckets in competition cars and IMO thats where they should stay! Once again i believe you get what you pay for and go for side...
Hiya Lofty,
Ball joint are easy, get the car on the ramp/stands and undo the nut from the bottom of the hub (top of joint). Get a big lever inbetween the wishbone and the hub and prise apart. Or knock the wishbone out of the hub. Shouldnt need to undo roll bar bushes and yes, they are a...
To be honest, its one of those things that seems like a good idea for a couple of weeks then once you do it, you wish you hadnt.
You can get tailored runners, possibly demon tweeks will source some. Not sure where they would position the seat but its bound to be wrong. They are great for...
I would replace the standard dampers with new renault items. Then get some shorter springs, fit uprated wishbone and roll bar bushes and you will have a nice set up for not much money.
Dont forget renault spent huge amounts of time and money getting the damping right (as do all manufactures)...
You wont hear a head gasket go and it will slowly get worse over time.
Check ignition system. Pull the plugs out and check they are intact (no tips missing etc). have a good look at your plug leads, if one has failed and is shorting to the block thats your misfire.
Im assuming your dizzy...
You wont hear a head gasket go and it will slowly get worse over time.
Check ignition system. Pull the plugs out and check they are intact (no tips missing etc). have a good look at your plug leads, if one has failed and is shorting to the block thats your misfire.
Im assuming your dizzy...
YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.
And proflex are roughtly £1000 per corner. Just to give you an idea of relative costs between proper competition coilovers and the rusbbish (in my opinion) you can get much cheaper.
You wont get it torqued up as there is no resistance to stop the damper spinning as you tighten the nut. Dont hold it with anything either.
You need to undo the crap rubbish sh*te design topmounts with an air gun (21mm i think) as you need the impact to free them.
Undo the 2 bolts holding...
Not sure if you get the bolt but i very much doubt it. Thatll be a renault job, BUT i would put in a longer bolt, do it up and then gind off the rest. Because this saves compressing the bush to get the nut on the bolt, guess what, theres a renault tool to do this i think.
Order them from...
Jack up the back of the car. Support on stands under the chassis somewhere.
Off with the back wheels and the black caps on the ends of the bars. (one each side) this exposes the bars.
Loosen the plastic clips that hold the brake cables to the bars. (under the car). Measure the distance...
Jack up the back of the car. Support on stands under the chassis somewhere.
Off with the back wheels and the black caps on the ends of the bars. (one each side) this exposes the bars.
Loosen the plastic clips that hold the brake cables to the bars. (under the car). Measure the distance...
You dont do it with splines, thats all just a myth.
Take out both torsion bars, move the beam to where you want it (roughly 30-40mm higher than it was) and knock the bars back in. They will be siezed if they have never been out before and you need a proper slide hammer or drive shaft puller...