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I need a new exhaust and am wanting a simple lightweight 2.5" system with single silencer and decat pipe. So far I have been looking at Pure Motorsports, K Tec recessed Supersport, Oreca Motorsport exhaust and have heard about the Yozza Race but can't seem to get any info on it. Which one...

Might just have to repair the rusty bits then and keep the wheel well. Thanks for the advice.

My black one was a Cat D too so no worse off. This 172 feels much quicker than the 182. Trevor from DTM says it could be to do with the cam timing as some do not set them up correctly after a dephaser change. Either way we have a decent base to start from. There is a little rust in the bottom...

No there are no tell tale signs of any previous damage. A couple of tiny car park dents that are barely noticeable, a poor bonnet, split in the bottom of the front bumper and a exhaust cut out in the rear bumper were the only things I could spot. Can't have been that much damage for a Cat D...

No Air Con as far as I can see. One downside is that the Cup still have the spare wheel well which looks untidy when stripped out compared to the 182 but never mind. Also during the drive home the exhaust started blowing badly. To get this welded up under warranty will be a 4 hour round trip...

No I don't think it has A/C I have see your splitter for sale. ;)

It's missing the front splitter too so it might have to be a Skoda job!

Been looking at photos and I think Silver wheels on Iceberg looks the best.

Yes I like them too. They are a little heavier than the Team Dynamics though aren't they and more expensive? I would like Anthracite Pro Race 1.2 but gloss black seem to be more available and cheaper.

I suspect the same. I think item 20 ball is metal but item 21 socket has a softer material suck a nylon or something that has worn. I know the item number so will ask Renault but the car has a 28 day warranty so am hoping to get the car garage to help sort this.

This is the same problem I am having. I do not know if it is item 20 or 21 that is worn.

I now have a 172 Cup rather than 182 FF but am I right in thinking ET35 would still be best for me?

Any ideas what the rough looking hole through the bulk head is?

Just sat on the drive pushing the clutch in again and again and the thing stayed put. Even trying by hand I couldn't get it off easily. I will just hope it stays on whilst driving. Here are a few photos:

I used to have those in 17" on my MX-5. I fancy 15" for my track wheels. I may get these refurbished unless anyone wants to swap for some Team Dynamics 1.2 or similar?

The wheels are a little tatty so not sure if they are worth refurbishing, just keeping for winter wheels or swapping for something else with someone. Any suggestions as I hear they are quite sort after and popular.

Thanks. First mod:

It's either the linkage bar that's the problem or the receptacle which looks like a plastic cam with a spring and the cable terminates into.

I think so. It just seems to drop off. You can push it back on and be very gentle and you can use the clutch but a bit of a lottery and can fall off at any time.

I have a silver 172 Cup. Can I join in?

The car is in pretty good condition but if you look closely at the photos you will see the wheels could do with a refurb, the bonnet has a rust spot on the front edge and the rear bumper has been cut by a previous owner for a twin exit tail pipe. Carbon bonnet should be arriving in the new year. :)

Here is the 172 Cup I have just collected:

Well this is the 182FF I have been running recently. Totally standard but very enjoyable. I thought it would be better to sell this and buy a 172 before spending any money on it. My theory was even stripping the 182 down it would still be heavier than the Cup and it would cost me money to...

Just sold my 182FF to be able to buy a 172 Cup to create a more focused track/fast road car with the dream of eventually turning into a full on race car for the Tricolore Trophy or Tin Tops in a year or so if possible. Photos to follow once I have uploaded a few to Photobucket.

Thanks for the effort MarcR but mine doesn't look like that. The radius bracket that the cable terminates at is mounted horizontally and connected to the pedal by a short connecting rod. I shall take photos and see what I can find out in the morning.

I have just picked up my Cup and on the way home the clutch pedal detached from the cable bracket. It was very difficult to see whilst stuck on a dual carriage way on the A69 but I manage to pop the small linkage back on after it fell off twice and get home with minimal gear changes. Does...

I am too looking into racing my Clio next year. Totally standard road car at the moment so a lot of work to do. I am reading up on the regs from different classes to decide what I want. Already have ITB's and Gen 90 ECU in the pipeline so that puts me out of the production class and a Carbon...

Coming up £340 but only shows ET45 for the Clio and you can't change it so have emailed them.

£462 + P&P at Demon Tweeks. I will have a look at Top Gear now. Thanks.

Turns out that price was it supplied with spigot rings not 60.1 centre bore. So is it work an extra £100 to have the correct size or should I just use metal spigot rings?