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You can buy the nuts,bolts and retaining clips for the subframe from the dealer. You could use a normal nut&bolt but having them captive will make life easier in future should it need to come back off. A few of the dealers I phoned said they weren't available, obviously just had useless parts...

I think the nut is 18mm too, although depending on how rusty it is, you might need to go down a size. Depends how quickly you need it but they're cheap enough to buy on ebay...

Looking good mate. Regards the subframe bolts, you can get a deep necked ring spanner on the nut, just make sure you pick out all the broken bits of the retaining tag, I had to do this on all the subframe bolts on the Cup when I was stripping it down. They can be hard going if they're well...

There was only just enough room to get the female part of the swager I made down the gap and then get the nut on, the ones near the ends i managed to reach in with my fingers, the ones in the middle, i passed the nut through the hole I had just made to the left or right and by finger tips got...

Just occured to me, the swagers you've got are quite deep/long, which is a good from the perspective that they will centralise and give a nice even flare but you might struggle to get them in certain places. When I did the front crossmember i only just managed to roll the back half of the...

Yeah, thats it, nothing more to it. If you measure the parallel part before the taper, that will be 40mm give or take any clearance designed into them. I made mine pretty much bang on the desired size, ie 30,25&20 Most hole saws will make a hole slightly bigger than their marked size just due to...

It's a bit like using a sledgehammer to crack a nut in all honesty but I know the people involved with it ;) It can do way more than I'll be asking of it but the bonus is some nice datalogging capability, launch and traction control and easy to adjust map functions on the fly.

Lol, it's not a pectel but I'd guess it's more like one of those than a megasquirt

Dont know if I've mentioned engine plans before. At the moment the plan is just to clean up and use the standard engine that came out of the original car, albeit probably with a set of rod bolts in it. It'll be running jenvey ITB's and a custom loom, using an ECU not previously used on a Clio...

My mate has got AC/DC sets at work but I think they're all big 3-phase things, I can get 3-phase at the workshop but it's not really practical to be lugging a full size welding set home for me to play around with, the one I have a loan of just now will near enough fit in a big shopping bag lol...

Thats the thing, do I spend the extra money on a budget ac/dc machine, or buy a good dc machine. It would open up some options but only if I could use it well enough to justify it and be confident what I was sticking together was going to look right and most importantly not fall apart lol

Very nice Neil! Bit neater than the ones I knocked up on nightshift lol I'm guessing that was a cnc lathe that made them? either that or a very very good tuner! As frenchthing says smear them with grease, i'd put it on the mating faces too, just means you need to make sure you get all that...

Yeah

Yeah thats the the ones, I'd never used one before either but where my mate works they have a lot of them, he seems to like them. This one is just a DC machine, not sure if I would spend the extra getting an AC/DC set when I eventually get round to buying one, ill see how well I get on with...

Cheers again for the comments guys. The Tig set up is a Thermal Arc 200 Professional something or other lol, it's my mates machine, just borrowing it, but would like to get one of my own at some point. Not long bought the mig so i'll need to leave it a while until I can afford to buy a tig. I'm...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He If its not going to cost you much to fit a bigger reservoir then I dont suppose it can hurt to try it and see but a cooler would be a fit and forget solution. There's nothing worse than having something like...

Cut 2 bits of the 25mm tube Then cut out 2 bits of 3mm plate and ground into circles and welded them onto the ends, sat in positon Tacked them on, marked out and drilled the holes Then welded them on fully Will use a cap head allen bolt in the top mounts. Had to finish early...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He I appreciate you don't want to be adding stuff to the car if it's not 100% needed but given past experience most hydraulic power steering systems need some form of cooler, even as standard most cars have...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Are you going to fit a cooler aswell? The extra capacity will obviously help but I would have my doubts if it will totally cure the issue, might just last a little while longer before it overheats. Given the...

I left the camera up at the workshop last night so this is really a 2 day update, although it was a late start up there today. Made up another mounting point for the dashboard Two M5 bolts go through the wee dooket on top of the dash Combined with the 4 OE clips along the front edge of...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Was the power steering system drained during the build of the car? Might not be the case in this instance but I've seen it before when a recently filled system PAS appears to be overheating, spewing frothy...

Cheers for the comments guys. Had a lot on recently, a daft course for work and making/fixing various things for other people so not had a chance to do much on the Clio. Finally cleared my feet today and got on with a few wee bits. Made a start on mounting the dashboard, Camera up to it's...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Car looks great James, you must be chuffed to bits, credit to the all involved. Can't ask much better than than that for a shake down either, best of luck with the events etc you've got planned this year. Will...

The ebay ones should be fine for thinner stuff, doors etc but as they're made from ally, I dont know how well they'll cope with doing the front crossmember, might do it but got a feeling they'll get mashed up doing so. The 30mm one I made is just mild steel but has a noteable mark on it from...

Recon there's going to be about 12-13 switches on that panel, and depending on what decided to do regards the dash, either a stand alone analouge rev counter and a couple of 52mm gauges or a digital dash, if its the later I may also need another 4 push buttons to control it. Relay count is at...

What bits on the car are you wanting to flare? The ebay ones will be fine for thin stuff

The top bit of the dash will be getting flocked, not sure about flocking the switch panel though? If it's sprayed satin matt black or anodised shouldnt get too much glare off it especially down there. Like most things it'll evolve as I go lol

Carbon would be nice but to do it properly I'd need to make a mould and then get it made in one piece. I'll probably go with making it from thin ally and spraying it black, or may enquire about getting it anodised.

Just as a sanity check, before I came back to work, I decided to chuck the gearbox in and check the clearance between the end cover and the new wishbone pick up points. Box was located with the dogbone, upper mount and the lower one seen in the picture, and then supported on the jack to get...

The space between the gearbox and the n/s front wishbone is going to be tight, I offered the gearbox up to the subframe out of the car, using the lower mount and the dog bone to locate it in the subframe, not an exact way of checking I know but it looked like it would clear, just! Before I go...