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https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/events/2017-auctions/the-silverstone-classic-sale-2017/the-silverstone-classic-sale-2017-sale/2pm-sunday-cars/1988-peugeot-205-gti-1.9-5-726-miles

When you think a 205 gti sold for 40 grand it’s not unrealistic to think low milage, low owner clios will be getting towards that territory in 10 years time.

I think the best thing to do is find someone with a turbo clio who will let you have ago. There’s something about being able to rev out a na engine that I always find myself missing with older style turbo’d cars.

Engine out, took me longer than I care to admit to work out why it didn’t look right on the stand. Belts issue

Clean it and paint/dye it usually brings it up nice again.

Both I think not a massive amount just to even out the arch gap around the wheel.

Definitely needs to come up a touch, finish on the wheels looks decent!

Wiring fault somewhere also check the relays for water/corrosion.

Put a jack under the exhaust to take the weight, undo the mounts and the clamp to the center section then jiggle it about until you get it in position. They are a bit of a nightmare to get lined up tbh, you can spend ages getting it right then soon as you drive it a bit the exhaust moves again.

Saw Chris from efi post about dodgy eBay injectors so could be your issue?

If the ecu is receiving no signal from the lambda either the sensor is faulty or you've got a wiring loom fault somewhere.

Yeah I did that on the first one but it was taking to long, drill had the heads off pretty fast. Anyone who wants some semi decent cheap metal bits these are pretty good cut like butter if you drill a pilot first. https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-shank-hss-drill-bits-25-piece-set/2726v

Couldn’t be fucked to even try undo them.. :ROFLMAO:

Yeah but that was happening anyway, all the RS models bar the Megane have been discontinued and I can’t see the Megane sticking around much longer either. Renault basically seem to be doing a Peugeot atm.

Find where the waters got in basically.

Great work! Planning on sticking mine on a jig in a few weeks too how have you connected it to the rear out of interest? Did you also find much corrosion underneath the seam sealer at all?

After an air compressor to power die grinders, spraying equipment and a blasting cabinet. I figure I need something with a 14cfm rating to cover all the bases, been looking at the Clarke raider and boxer series. Would anyone recommend anything else (£500 max)

Sounds like the mechanics fucked it then it’s only a thin piece of pipe.

How bizarre have you had the alternator replaced recently or anything?

Take the undertray off and see if you can get it out of gear by wiggling the selector about.

Before you start changing any parts try jumping it with the negative on the engine block this should rule out a bad earth.

Did you connect the negative to the engine block or the negative on the battery? Immobiliser lights not on or anything?

Will it jump start?

Will it jump start? If not then you’ve got a starter motor issue.

Engine ready to come out.

Danger Danger high voltage :ROFLMAO:

No sorry. I wouldn’t worry if your profiles correct your going to be well into your 70s by the time it’s a problem. :ROFLMAO:

Yeah your supposed to cover machined surfaces in grease first. Tbf the hubs don’t really need rust treatment there’s plenty of “spare” material on cast items so grinding/blasting is usually more appropriate.

Prices as of a few days ago was £300 for 182 cat, £450 for a 172 square.

Hmm does sound like the battery hasn’t got enough amperage to crank but unless you can get it to crank you won’t be able to test it. Do you have a spare battery you can borrow? Initially I was going to suggest a bad earth so you could check out the earth strap to the gearbox but the jump pack...