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The large one can be left open , because all it goes to is the charcoal canister and mine has been removed .
So nothing goes through there any more .
Probably got spiders [emoji887] in there now [emoji23]
I recently took mine apart , had the spindle shaft out and cleaned it all up as it moved sideways .
The graunchiness at the beginning of part open throttle has gone completely , and I am positive it'll be ok , but I won't know if it's ok until I've fitted it .
I have RSX and the settings are from zero to just over 30 clicks .
Recently I was at Bedford and I forgot to adjust the setup from road to track . I noticed the car was a little wobbly , so pulled into the pits , set the clicks to 20 and went out again .
Mega drive from there on in , felt good...
Low boost is reliable upto 230bhp kits . They fair well to abuse , any more pushing for numbers that's when it goes wrong .
We all know the gearboxes are weak , but if driven and used well , will last .
I've done all the above in my Ph1 and I decided to leave the wire in , just cut and pulled the loom out at the left side of the dash .
Seems legit [emoji12]
Regardless if it was working before fella , it's emptied its fluid and the air lock is at the master cylinder/abs unit as the air has replaced the fluid .
A calliper can't goose over night like your thinking it has .
I'm sure after a good pressure bleed it'll be fine , but there is that...
Quite poss an ABS fault is causing the abs/esp fault . Can still drive with that one on .
I'd be more concerned with the oil / stop lamp on .
If it's on all the time and doesn't go off . Don't drive it as it could be oil pressure related. But then again it could be something as silly as the...
With regards to the heater , it all works fine. Poverty spec [emoji12].
For some reason it didn't show me the rest of the post . Well I've read it now , read you sorted the heater now .
Great progress on the car btw [emoji1303].
The front fog lamp relay is on the lower internal housing behind the passengers side dash / glovebox area .
Check all powers and switch powers to and from the front fog relay there before you go any further .
Could just be a crap connection or relay sh*t itself
Yes : That test concludes that the ABS module is at fault .
Now if the ECU were to be detached from the hydraulic block , you could even test it further by just connecting the ecu back up on its own and then see if the fuse pops , this determining if it is actually one of the hydraulic valves...
I miss understood , but I know exactly what you mean now .
When I do my suspension tightening , it's loosened off first then retightened whilst the car is on those drive up ramps.