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In that case, you might have more luck on the renaultforums.co.uk since most people on here are Clio RS owners. I presume the manifolds are the same as a mk2 clio 1.2, so you might get some luck though. Sorry I can't help.
I'm not trying to be offensive here, but what are you actually trying to do? If you're struggling this much with pulling the intake manifold off and getting to the injector rail, I'd worry a little about your ability to put it back together properly without it leaking. Last thing you need is...
if it's like a 172, that large top bit is a aluminium casting there to stop the fuel rail getting smashed in a frontal impact. It's held on with two nuts onto studs that are in deep recesses (counterbores) in the front of the casting. 10mm socket on an extension, undo them, pull it off. Once...
I didn't actually, I was aware of the requirements for good port geometry, and the port was designed to optimise mass flow rate. But that looks really interesting, I'll be sure to read it in the next few weeks because I would like to really closely examine the affects of surface roughness...
Yeah, well I've finished the paper if you'd like me to pm it to you. Obviously only a small number of Sims were noteworthy enough to make it to the paper though.
When I did my literature review I couldn't find any published papers of anyone testing this before, although I'll bet a good few top names have given it a try over the years! The benefit of CFD is you can run 50 simulations without having to buy and port 50 cylinder heads though.
You can pull the cover off of the engine mount and have a look to see if the cambelt is intact. I can't remember if the cover comes off without disconnecting the engine mount on the left hand side as you face the front of the car working on it, but you should be able to prop the engine from...
Yeah, honestly at this point I'm not sure. Dave Crissel, from Allstsge cylinder heads (very highly respected in the world of golfs and superbikes) ports by hand and suggests a slightly rough surface finish, like a finely sanded surface. I would be inclined to agree, having not experimented too...
I only experimented keeping the geometry the same, although it wouldn't be too difficult to increase the port size and find out. That said the increase in surface friction is a loss in energy, which will still be present in the larger port. Any loss in energy contributes to the volumetric...
To be fair, the rotation on golf balls isnt the reason for the dimples, a dimpled ball Vs a non dimpled ball static in a windtunnel show the dimples still reduce drag. If anyone has a spare head with good intake ports they'd be willing to send me, I'd be more than happy to 3D scan the port and...
The simulation calculates the mass flow rate of the pot at different levels of valve lift as well as vorticity and swirl. When you dimple the port, you slow the air down wherever you put the dimples. The dimples do help prevent the flow separating as it passes the valve and valve guide, but the...
Nice car that, wish you luck with it. Unfortunately I know nothing about them, but if I do a weekday track day any time soon, I'll let you know, so you can come and lap me many times XD
Yeah I can imagine, plus it'd be a bit redundant, since no race series that jags of the time regularly compete in would allow it. You'd need to completely redo all the casting as well, so wouldn't be a cheap job...
Hi all,
I have just finished writing my final year dissertation after taking a break from work to finish my university degree. My employer suggested that I should investigate the effects of adding dimples to the internal surface of an intake port in order to determine if it is beneficial to...
Yeah his box would work, but there'd be a speedo drive that you'd leave unconnected. The issue is putting a non 172 cup gearbox into a cup, not the other way round. You'd also have different ratios
There's a proper guide now, if anyone needs it, much the same as the above really, but with a bit of extra description in places.
https://www.cliosport.net/threads/mk2-rs-arb-bush-replacement-guide-pic-heavy.817150/
Jon, would you mind if I put your pictures and a write up in the Cliosport guides section so it's easy to find? If you'd prefer to do it yourself, or not happy for me to use your pics, then that's absolutely fine, just thought it might help future attempts.
I bought one of the cheapo eBay presses, at 12 tonnes with the bottle jack style operation. It was 77 odd quid if I remember right, have done loads of wheel bearings, bushes and stuff with it and never looked back. The way I look at it if it stops working I'll just buy another 12 tonne jack and...
A 15 will fit over the front calipers, but a 14 most certainly wont (from experience having to take a rear off to put on the front then put the spare on the rear)
I'd be surprised if the car has been built like that with brake ducts if it has standard pads tbh. If it was mine, I'd be having it up to see if I could find out what pads are on it, sometimes the numbers are stamped, or if the pads are pretty new you can read the numbers.
If you want to know whether the bearings are good or not, put the front of the car on stands and then pull the wheel up and down. You can do it by hand, although you need to put a fair bit of force, or get a big pry bar between the tyre and the floor. If the nut moves up and down, or you can see...
The pms uprated top mount bearings are minebea if I remember correct (have ordered them before) I know the rear beam uprated ones are definitely minebea. Preloading a bearing is typically when you have more interference on the outer race to reduce end float, and I think this might be the case as...
Right yeah, I certainly wasn't scraping my 172 Cup as standard, but was driving knowing it wasn't protected, so not being silly over the bad sections. Take a picture side on and compare it to a standard one on google images or something will help you work it out easily.
Good to see some more...
Right, yeah that makes sense. Does the car run ok now? Mine ran like a swine for a bit, I changed the coil, and it didn't help, then swapped the leads for a set of used magnecors off here, got in it and it felt like a rocket afterwards aha!
Not really, It's just how the mounts attach to the car. The PMS ones have 3 M8 holes in them, you drill three holes in the top of the strut tower, then bolt the mount to the underside of it with the little plate they supply on the top. I chose the PMS ones as they are pretty much the cheapest...
I don't know, but I wouldn't mess around with it myself, just put one of the original square plugs and a normal 172 coil pack on there. There could certainly be differences. How did this come to happen? Has the car always been running a 1.2 coil pack? Did you just buy the car? I struggle to...