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Saw this parked behind mine as I left the gym this morning, silver 182 GU05, anyone on here?

It's a no from me again. I'm at a marriage preparation day in a draughty old church. For 6 hours. Pro tip, don't get married.

Easier said than done sometimes. Plus the missus drives it, and she's awful with alloys. All 4 of her Mini wheels are fecked after 7 months. With the current Uniroyals, the tyre isn't as wide as the rim, so the first point of contact is the rim itself

Currently running 195 45 Uniroyal RS3's on my Cup Turinis, not a bad tyre but they don't offer anything in the way of rim protection. Not been an issue in the past as the wheels are battered anyway, but I'm planning on getting them refurbished soon and could do without the rim being so...

I'll not be able to make it. For some reason our meets always coincidence with me being on a day session in York!

Wash, polished and slapped some sealant on it. Akin to rolling a turd in glitter I know, but at least it's got some form of protection on it for winter now

Amp that runs the sub has definitely died. Was wondering whether it'd would be better to do away with the sub + amp and upgrade the front and rear speakers (ran off the head unit. Or to replace the amp and run the sub?

Any help on this matter? My years old Kenwood amp has just died a death. Looks like a replacement amp, circa 350watts is going to be around the 70quid mark. Currently running an old Kenwood head unit, stock speakers and the aforementioned Kenwood amp with a Punch sub. Any ideas if it'd be...

Sorted out the exhaust, now has a nice stealthy backbox and a centre silencer. No where near quiet though! Also fitted a set of Eibach Pro springs to it, if anything it sits higher than before! Hoping it settles, but the original springs were probably a bit saggy. Ho hum.

I'm guessing you've checked the compression via a compression tester and it's come back at 13.5bar? Compression ratio and actual compression are different things. 11:1 compression ratio doesn't mean you'll see 11 bar compression on the tester

I've worked in dealers for years, cars only get the service they're due. And sometimes that's a struggle to get out of sales! They'll try skimp on filters and plugs and will try their hardest to only pay out for an oil and filter change. Also, no used car prep sheet I've seen says to remove the...

Spotted this in Morrisons down Balby, PJ04 something or other was the plate. Had a CS sticker and an RSTuning one in the window too, look rather nice. I was lurking in an orange Mini though =/

Same here, been slacking recently. Although last Sunday I was a bit worse for wear. There always seems to be a meet on the day after I've been to York for a day of boozing!

Anyone have the part number handy for the rear brake compensator for a 172 Cup? Or even better, know if there's a rebuild or seal kit for them as mine has decided to spring a bit of a leak.

I'd love to throw mine on the rollers, but I'll be on my way back from Belgium so no can do I'm afraid.

I'll be getting mine done at Efi once I've got the decat, exhaust and timing sorted. There's a graph (which should always be taken with a pinch of salt) but it looks to massively improve power and torque around the 3-4k rpm region which will be handy for normal pottering about

Sorted out my sticky back brake, a slightly damp patch on the rear axle around one of the brake pipe clips caught my eye, moved it a little and it promptly burst in my hand. That'll be a job for Wednesday and Thursday night after work then!

Was good to meet up with some like minded enthusiasts and have a drive out. Makes a change from wasting away on the sofa!

Same here. Just about to set off,if my missus can find my sat nav that is!

Got to fit a new washer pump tomorrow morning but I've not got too battered at the racing in York today so I should be good to go still

Anyone on here? Was following me all the way down York Road to the Highwayman pub and then headed off towards the A1 this evening.

As said earlier, micro voltage measurement across the fuses. Or pull fuses until the ampage drops away. You may need to leave everything for half hour or so for all the control units to be fully switched off so you don't get a false reading.

Battery drain would be the correct way to describe it. Voltage drop is a resistance issue. You can trace a drain via measuring microvoltages across fuses or using the ammeter setting on your multimeter.

Wiped the dash down, cleaned the glass inside, replaced that silly plastic bush on the gearbox and whipped the inlet off to change the spark plugs, which were well past their best even though they weren't due for replacement. Got tracking to do (again!) and gearbox oil change this weekend.

I'd be up for this if I'm chipper enough after York races the day before. If someone wants to take the brand new pollen filter off me that doesn't fit in my Cup they'd be more than welcome to it.

Sounds like it could be set to the generic longlife servicing intervals that all new cars seem to come on nowadays. On VAG stuff it's upto 20k and 2 years, for example.

Cleaning microfibre cloths and drying towels etc, is it still a case of throwing them in the washing machine with some non bio detergent and no fabric conditioner on a cool wash?

I've got the Fatty's kit on my Cup. Makes a bit of a yobbo noise. I'm based near Doncaster too if you want a demo of it first

Will keep all that in mind! It's no concourse car so the top end stuff isn't needed

Ran out of my old Megs Quick Detailer stuff today. Any recommendations for a replacement that's around the same kind of price range as the Meg's one? I like the idea of the Chemical Guys P40 what with it having some carnauba in it for a bit of added protection. Don't need anything silly...