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Euro don't do the correct length ones. There's a thread on here listing the correct Borg & Beck cables somewhere.

Get the BC DS with solid top mounts from KAM Racing. I run 8/8kg on mine on the road. I'd go for 9 or even 10 on the front on yours as it's just for track. 8kg rear is the most they do for these, but don't forget it's a separate spring and shock, and the spring being positioned where it is...

Refer to my post after that.

That's true 😂

Odd, could try take the caliper off or pads out and actuating the lever loads of times to see if it brings the piston out and then wind it back in. That should free it up.

Cant believe it's the cable after only 12 months. How far is the handbrake lever coming up, normal?

I doubt there are many people on here who have experience with the Magneti Marelli ECU. The error is shown on this document, but doesn't say what for 🙄

Should be no bother for a garage to press out.

Which 200 do you mean, the Mk3 197/200 or the Mk4 200EDC? Mk3 bolt in and Mk4 press in.

I would imagine it's like the Mk2 where the main subframe is zinc coated prior to its outer black painted finish.

It's been used by a woman, it'll be the clutch/slave 😂

Unfortunately powdercoating does tend to attract corrosion from the inside, only needs a tiny way in and it starts.

Just nipped up will be fine.

Just found the spec in the workshop manual. It's 21Nm

More like 44Nm I think.

The AG glass polish is good if you find you're having problems with glass cleaner streaking on the inside.

Regular glass cleaner shouldn't have any effect on the wipers clearing the screen. Giving them a good polish with what Riz mentioned or Carpro Ceriglass will remove all contamination and give you a fresh base to apply a rain repellent.

As much as a Milwaukee that I am, I have to say that on a budget the brushless Ryobi stuff is decent. Worth a look.

ABS ring sounds likely. One or more will be corroded/cracked.

ELF Tranself NFX I think it's called now.

For a road car i'd be ok with every 2 years. With track use I do every year.

AKI i think they use, which is RON+MON/2 Was the equivalent to our 95 over here, but their quality is hit and miss.

I might do that when I take mine off again. Usually use 4.8mm X 9mm peel rivets. M6 or M8 rivnuts?

Always thought there was a bit of a lip preventing it from coming out/going in.

Yeah, driver's rear sensor. Not too bad of a job but it's a hub off job. You'll have to get the sensor from Autodoc, unless you want to pay Ktec prices. Driver's rear has a female plug, passenger rear is male plug, so easy to see if you have the correct one.

All the same really.

https://www.kamracing.co.uk/grams-oe-rear-disc-spacer-renault-clio-mk2-rs-172-rs-182.html

Red Line oil if you can get it or a high quality GL4 spec oil, not GL5.

During the recent MOT, the driver's side braided brake line burst on the brake efficiency test! They're Goodridge lines which have been on the car since i've owned it, so they must be 12+ years old. The rubber sleeve over the crimp looks to have been hiding some damage, otherwise i'd have...

There's videos on Youtube of a guy showing how to do key coding with Renolink.