Search results

5 years on and it still looks s**t.

All the fuses are good, white connector on the inner wing is clean and tight as is the earth there. There was a bit of corrosion on some of the relay pins but I've cleaned that up.

Battery negative that bolts behind the headlight, braided strap from chassis rail to gearbox and the ECU earth to the box above the drive shaft have all been replaced. Even though they all looked fine I might remove and clean them all to rule them out next. Going to check for injector pulse too...

As thread title really. No spark, coil gets its 12v supply briefly when ignition turned on but nothing thereafter. Pulled and cleaned all the fuses and relays, resistance on crank sensor is 230 ohms so in spec. Possibly biggest clue is the electronic warning light (waveform) and ESP lights are...

You sure you haven't got any wet carpet anywhere? Boot floor or behind the dash perhaps?

The kit I had came with the different idler but it also had a different spacer and a longer bolt, sounds like yours is missing so I'd get in touch with wherever you bought the kit from?

Trying to do the cambelt on my 172 but the crank pulley isn't floating, it's stuck on the end of the shaft. There's a couple of bolt holes on it so I can heat it up and try and rotate it to spin it free on the shaft but I'm worried about bending the locking pin, anyone else had this problem?

Wtf? I'm sure this came up in the feed somewhere so I didn't think to check the date! Bumping an 11 year old thread is good going

If your old valve had failed or seized in the shut position or wasn't opening all the way it's 100% possible removing it will make the car feel better, you might have just got used to the slight reduction in performance you had before. That's assuming the valve is the only intake, if the air box...

Well I've done a compression test. Cylinder 1: 210 psi Cylinder 2: 205 psi Cylinder 3: 205 psi Cylinder 4: 210 psi. That's as good a result as any I've seen so I think the engine and valves are good it's just the stem seals that need changing.

Won't be removing the head just to change stem seals, however if the compression test comes back bad it does look like a new engine is going to be the way forward ill keep the thread updated as soon as I've got any news to report!

The plot thickens! Looks very much like the cambelt snapped to me, the above invoice was stamped at 72k and the car is on 120k now. Given some of the telltale signs I've found I'm not convinced a good or thorough job was done, so it's possible the headset was skimped on as well. Going to try...

That's positive about the selector seal, at least even if I can only improve it a little it'll be worth it. As far as I'm aware the valves, head and everything else are all ok it's just seals that have gone, so at about two quid each it won't break the bank to replace them all.

And if the head has been rebuilt with non oem parts the stem seals might have been cheap pattern ones and have reached the end of their life now the cars on 120k. Good shout.

Was hoping I could do the rope in the cylinder trick to stop any valves dropping while I changed the seals, and yeah no indication why the headgasket had to be done it was ages ago though I'll double check when but I'm sure the car has done 50k since. I should have done a compression check...

Went with Luk for the clutch as it was the cheapest decent brand I'd heard of. There is a heat shield for the starter too it just came off whilst removing the engine. So has anyone had any success changing stem seals without removing the head on one of these? Or am I going to have to do a...

Thought I'd stick a few pictures up as I'm getting pretty depressed with the 172 I've bought, it's rapidly becoming more and more lemon like! I'm in the unfortunate position of having very little time to work on the car, and I'm also in too much debt to spend much more on it, it was meant to be...

I bought mine as a cheap fun daily so trying to resist the urge to spend a fortune on it, 15mm spacers and some lowering springs might be on the cards though!

Found this thread when I searched flame red 172 as I've not long bought a do-er upper myself in the same colour! Have skim read through 40 odd pages (quiet day at work) great motivation! I really like the stance of yours in the very first pics in the OP, which convinced me to order some 15mm...

Looks like good fun this auto solo lark, am I right in thinking its the same as auto testing with no reversing? Might see if there's any local to me and pop along to watch one

Someone got a bargain? Description is a bit lacking granted but a lot of car for the money. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282518939738

Bit of an update, have tried for several days now to get the gearbox to crunch into third and its not done it since. I'm going to put the time it did happen down to a combination of me being ham fisted and old oil, worn dogbone mounts and bushes. I've ordered the bush that goes on the gearbox...

If you look in the members section there's a code for free delivery for CS members. Don't know if it will apply to NI but worth a try.

Eh? What was their reasoning behind that?

Will be watching this with interest, I've just bought the proper Renault tool kit from RPD to do mine too, but I'm not going to have time to start working on the car until at least next week.

Well it's pulling harder by the day now so I've got more confidence in the engine! However I've got a slight crunch changing into third at high revs. (6k+) what are the chances of an oil change improving this? I'm thinking I might change the oil before doing anything else, then if it's still...

Well after a little bit more driving with some fresh fuel it is running a lot better, no stuttering or flashing eml lamps. However it does seem to have a slight hesitation above 3.5-4k rpm and the power drops off a little, doesn't do it all the time it seems worse when it's warm and the dephaser...

Bangor!

If you're really stuck could you get the ferry to Holyhead and visit Reno-Tech in Llandudno? Not used them but heard good things. Plenty of good roads round here too, or you could book a TD at Anglesey make a weekend of it!

Bugger, that's something I could really do without! At least I had an EML light flashing though so I should be able to extract a fault code which will give me something to start with. The idle is a bit on the lumpy side too so I was hoping getting the timing 100% would solve a few problems...