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Entirely depends on how you drive. Even genuine ones won't stand up to anyone heavy with the controls. Hence why poly bushed dogbone mounts are so popular. Normal changes with a sympathetic throttle foot eg. Rolling on and not stamping on the throttle and any mounts will be fine. Heavy use...

Mines under a cheapish cover. Works well enough. Keeps the bird s**t, tree wierdness and my neighbours tyre burning ash off. Also holds some tarpaulin round the front wheels which stops the rain bouncing into the discs and me having to grind all the rust off when I take it out once a week...

My mum is currently having a zafira engine replaced because it does a very similar thing to yours. They balls around with a few cheap options before agreeing that oil was getting into cylinder number 4 which is why number 4 spark plug continues to get all fouled up, the engine doesn't pull right...

My Cup would have them if it was a daily drive. It would be quieter on the motorway if I put an actual sail out the window I'm sure!

T1r's like most road tyres are fine for having a good blast at a track but if it's gets and hot and stick and you start to get involved in trying to tail something faster you will pull the tyre on to it's sidewall. Especially if your out for more than 15mins and they get really warm. This time...

Yes Also mount it as far forward as you can on the two top mounts and Do the bolts that hold the mounts to the car up good and tight without going silly and learn to roll the throttle on after a change if all mounts are standard. If you must stamp on the throttle after a gear change or your...

Nope. Basic as it comes. Some people actually raise the top up more with a washer as it catches on full lock and makes an annoying chirpy squeak on some cars. It's unlikely the car with ever not be in contact with the ground long enough for it to be a problem.

Jack it up. It's blindingly obvious.

Junk the copper slip. Do a Google search there are better products for the job now.

Most people are awful drivers on their first time out. It's the not following the very sensible track day rules that are virtually the same where ever you go that's the annoying bit.

First assumption is it's been knocked out of shape. Maybe add a photo so the more experienced can give you some options.

It is a mass produced car so they are never spot on. The Clio rear setup is not particularly robust so they are easily knocked out of spec if the car has had a hit to a rear wheel. Might be worth getting the geometry checked out to see how bad it is.

They lowest spec ones do go out of stock so people can cash in. It's worth hanging on until this happens to sell yours on.

Injector rail cover? Mistook an exhaust issue for this on mine. Nuts just seem to undo themselves and fall off.

Genuine standard for road use. I can't fault mine. I used mintex ceratec on all my lube points and no squealing even after track use.

Previous owners have probably knackered the syncros. Shame. At least you can get by.

Yay! Don't dislike modded ones at all.

It's a smart phone app you can use with a cheapo eBay Bluetooth obd dongle. Pretty sure it's iPhone and android. Beginning to think I maybe the only person running and tracking a boggo cup!

Tuition will be the best money you've ever spent. Virtually nothing you do in a car on the road translates on to a track. Don't right off any of the suggestions in here as I've seen all of them make good budget track cars.

A completely standard Clio sport (172 etc.) on road tyres will do 15mins sessions fine. So with tyres and brakes Uprated you'll be fine. Just search on youtube. Most are a basic spec and just stripped out. Mods are track time when your on a budget. So only mod what you have to. Also learn how...

Not worry about it as it's a track car for track days which are non competitive and racing is forbidden. On a more helpful note. It's the usual engine tuning route. Cams and throttle bodies. Heads aren't massively responsive to porting but gains can be had. You can go the whole hog if you have...

I've never seen anyone drive like this on a track day before. Holding people up or deliberately booting it when you're trying to overtake yes but never someone stealing lines like this. Not cool.

Pretty sure the torque app will accept a 10hz gpz receiver. Might come in useful when tracking it later. Nice car. I really like my cup. It's poverty spec appeals to me for some reason.

No they don't. I take great care with mine until i can get a standard lever back in.

Very few of these boxes are intended for more than spirited driving and so anything more than a 100% accurate fast shift will result in a horrible noise of some sort. Also the syncros will have some signs of wear unless it's a new box or a fresh rebuild. My 172 cup pulled a 6.7 to 60 and a low...

Good 'ol cable!

Good stuff!

If only engines worked like that! Mass produced engines are so odd. That's why if I was to go down the throttle body route I'd have the whole engine looked at so I knew I wasn't going to be short changed in the end. The F4R is hardly cutting edge.

If only engines worked like that!

Or don't shift like a nut case so the syncro's don't have to work so hard. Regular hard use and heel and toe would be well worth learning. Even as badly as I do it on track changing gear is a lot smoother.