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As an example as to how bad a local garage can be on a bad cambelt job you won't even need to insert the horseshoe tool to check after inserting the crank pin. It will be that obvious!!

Engines with interference fit pulleys are all roughly the same price to get done. The whole point of this setup is so that you can keep engine timing spot on while correctly tensioning the belt. The dephaser doesn't help as if the timing is out it can potentially move the timing to a dangerous...

Mapping is a ruddy minefield. In some ways a generic map that has a bigger safety margin to cover production and basic mod tolerances can be safer than entrusting your car to someone that has no prior experience of a particular engines way of producing power and how it responds to air fuel...

Toe out improves turn in at the cost of some stability. Can cause higher tyre wear with a lot of negative camber. The 182's came with toe out from the factory. Causes plenty of arguements at places like kwikfit.

You order 182 cup shocks for the rear on a 172 cup. If you dig deep enough you can find a post about the 172 cup rears having a different part number on Renaults old parts system. For some reason the new parts system reverted to the standard 172 rear part No. I had 172 rears on mine so I swapped...

Springs are around a hundred quid a corner so Eibachs softer set are the only affordable option for near standard. unless you get lucky and find a secondhand set. Make sure they have the paint marks on if used. Yellow and white I think. Mine had an aftermarket 172 spring on!

Megasquirts can work well but you can't give them lip service. You need lots of time and patience. The money you can save by going down that route is replaced by the time needed to get it right. Just depends which is more important to you.

What did people do before ABS!? I didn't have ABS until I got my current Peugeot. No-one died. ABS in snow is a joke. I may never stop...... I wouldn't pay 5k for a cup as it is over a decade old so it's not going to be factory fresh regardless of the mileage. if your handy with the spanners...

A full fat 182 is a pretty decent daily. My dad never got less than 35mpg on a 80 mile round trip on mixed roads everyday to work for a year. Gearing is low on phase 2 clios so long motorway journeys can be noisey if you like to sit at 80+ with the radio off. 182 full fats cope with track days...

Plenty of good cars about for 3k. The Clios are only cheap to run if you get one with all the big stuff done. The special thing about the clios is that they hold on to a little bit of what made older cars a joy to drive. My wife's friend had a weird green metallic colour on her fiesta fixed...

-1.75 max with standard ride height. It also depends on manufacturing tolerances on the strut and hub.

The bolts have a cam on them. This does limit total adjustment to -1.75 max which is ample for road use.

A better car is really down to personal preference. I don't see a BMW as an upgrade or a better car as it doesn't tick any boxes for me. Do what makes you happy. People are right you won't see your money back but then most hobbies are just money down the drain. The only insane thing is to...

5k on a hobby ain't much really. Try building a competitive Sprint car and running it at motorsport events for a year.

A couple of the bolts can be a real sod to get undone as the clips they bolt into rust and spin round but no I did it on my own no real issues. Put a blanket down in case you do drop it to stop anything nasty occurring!

Phase 2 fifth gears are quite low. I bet there's a few downhill runs in the UK where you could hit the limiter in 5th in you were insane enough to try. As mentioned the ECU has a present temperature to reach before increasing the rev limit. If these conditions don't occur through faults then...

7000rpm I've nudged the limiter in 4th at track days so I know it's lower. One of those straights where 5th is no use so you use all of 4th is the culprit.

7250 in first 3 gears.

The kit just jams two O-rings in there which have to be stretched over everything. If it leaks with the kit try upgrading the O-rings. Some rubber grease might help as tightness is reported initially and that maybe when minor damage is occurring.

Dismantle the gear change but make sure you record the main linkage length in case it goes pear shaped. There is a nylon bush in the bottom of the gearbox that is a sod to fit that is usually the culprit but check it all for play and dry joints.

Cold rev limit is 6800rpm but can come in as low as 6500rpm. I had the impression the OP was feeling a drop off not Hittimg a wall.

They should pull to the limiter but peak power is around the early to mid 6K's as stated. Depends how sensitive you are to the torque drop off or you need to start checking for a cause. Starting with service items.

Dead, dead and dead.

2CV's manage to race so why not 1.2 Clios!

I did a track day in my 206 diesel estate. Brakes were fine and tyres were fine. Brakes were standard 266mm discs and pads and the tyres were mid spec road rubber. I even overtook a few people. It's not all about outright speed. Sometimes you get some proper classics that are there just to blow...

It's a track day. There is no rule that says that you can't drive fast road in any old piece of rubbish as long as it's safe. If it's a well organised day you will be flagged to move over at the next safe opportunity if you are holding people up. Screw anyone that says different. Track days are...

I used to use engineers blue but it was a bit hit and miss.

Lift reverse on my Cup. No cable. The lifting raises the part on the gear lever enough to clear an obstruction on the lever housing so you can move lever over further. Simple design really.

Cobalt bits aren't too expensive if you come across hulk steel. A bit brittle so you have to be careful but put two fingers up to hardened nonsense.

Is there any difference between the different sport surnames? Maybe helpful if the OP has to source another subframe.