Search results

Don't think i've seen that one around before.

I've seen those on FB. They're ex-Ginetta Junior tyres and i'd imagine they will be fine.

I believe this is the oem part? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/672870?search=BOSCH%20Sensor,%20boost%20pressure%20(0%20281%20002%20616) Check the numbers match with yours.

Saw this on a mates PS5 on the weekend, the intro with Keanu looked like a real video. Graphics were impressive.

That won't be slow! Mega that Jon, that'll embarrass M3's and anything this side of a GT3 on the straights 😂

Not your usual 1:1 then 😂 Surprised that it stripped it tbh at that ratio it's 19:1 😳 Weak mix that.

To swap a gearbox over I paid £200 ish. It's 6 hours book time i think, so whatever the labour rate is in your area.

No they're not waterproof.

Aye, i've had mine a few years and after crawling around on the floor working on cars they've not even ripped or anything yet. Think mine are the Redhawk ones, only £20 at the time plus pads for £8-9.

This. I have some of their work trousers with removable pads in. Although their range has vastly reduced now since they've scrapped the Dickies Workwear side of the business, concentrating more on the Streetwear stuff.

Have you removed any wires in the process of stripping the interior?

Run the oil for the box not the diff basically.

If it is out of the breather, then you have crankcase pressure which is usually worn/broken piston rings.

Been spotted today

Yeah I've seen them, can't see them being brilliant for battery life 😅

Pretty much, just be mindful on the passenger side that you don't pull the driveshaft out the box, otherwise you'll lose gear oil.

Stuck all my Milwaukee batteries on charge today on the rapid charger as normal. The 6ah M12 decided to flash red and green error... b****cks. Luckily I have an M12 slow charger and it works fine on that. Heard quite a few stories about the M12's not liking to fast charge sometimes.

Is the exciter wire plugged in? As Northloop says it needs something to tell it to charge.

Jack will need a fairly long reach on it, especially if your car is low otherwise the body of the jack will hit the sill before you reach where you want to jack it. I have to drive mine onto some plastic ramps first.

This is how exactly how I do mine (not my picture) Jack where arrow is

Yeah definitely grease the inside, especially on the small end. Helps it to slide along the tie rod and also prevent what happened to yours twisting.

Front - on the the chassis rail, looks for the box section looking bit. Rear - on the rear sill jacking points. That's my usual places.

If there was something obvious I hope someone would tell me too 😂

It's an absolute b*****d, especially on the driver's side 😂 Can only suggest getting one part on and then working the rest around with a blunt screwdriver or something.

No wear sensor on the 172/182 as far as I know 🤔

No wonder you go through loads of stuff 😂

50/50 😳😂

The rears have really long bolts that go through the sliders into the hub, but I don't know the spec of them. The smaller ones holding the carrier to the caliper are the same as fronts but 25mm I think

M12x1.25 32mm long for the fronts.

Do you mean the carrier to the hub? Or caliper to the carrier?