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Just finishing up on my 197 cambelt change, I had to use a bit of heat to remove the crank sprocket so am replacing the crankshaft oil seal. Now I believe this has probably never been done on this engine, but when I removed the plate that the seal goes into (not sure what its called?!) to get a...
I done it on a DCI years ago as I was a young lad and got stuck at the captive nuts on the subframe! - wouldnt be in a hurry to do it again!
either drop the subframe or pull the engine with it if you must come out the top.
Trying to understand this a little better,
So the original issue wasn't that it didn't work, it was that the fan stayed on 100%? no matter what speed the switch was at?
Is it Climate control or manual heating?
I'm doing the belt on my 09 197 this week, looks original to me, genuine idlers and tensioner, genuine water pump too. Given the lack of history with the car I don't believe it will have been done before. belt looks in good condition! was timed up spot on too. - The aux belt was ready to snap...
one of the lads at my old work had a sealey box with all the sealey tools and they seemed pretty good, the rep was in once a week too and just swapped anything that was broken
You know your a car guy, or a Renault car guy, when you remove your own wheels to take to the tyre garage as you don't trust anyone not to bend the jacking points..........
Awesome, if there was ever a time for a Trophy then that it is!
This was mine, 7 years ago, the morning after my bird told me she was pregnant and it felt like she had ruined my life! - It took all my worries away for a few hours! - The car is long gone and my not so little 7 year old turned...
I've never heard a sound bar I've thought sounded decent, but I suppose that's the point of them, compromised, neat and tidy.
Amp and speakers all day for me.
In the middle of my first F4R Cambelt, and I'm positive I read someone on here a while back (@Brigsy comes to mind?!) saying they go OVER the torque setting for the dephaser and exhaust cam nuts. I've had a search and cant find anything so I'm now doubting myself :ROFLMAO:
Been ticking away at this when I get time between other jobs!
5hrs from starting to having the engine and box out I was quite happy with!
Slave cylinder was leaking which was the cause of the loss of clutch pedal as expected, looks like its never had a clutch in its 80k miles and wasnt far...
to me it sounds exactly like the fuel rail guard rattle, and the fact its only happening at idle and stopping when the AC raises the idle, to me points to that!
Have you confirmed its definitely the AC compressor? does the noise come and go with the activation of the AC? As above just stick a second hand AC compressor on it.
Make sure the fuel rail guard is tight as these can also cause a metallic rattle when they are loose
don't worry about the reg being wrong. That just needs a good warm up before test, surprized they didn't, We would have failed that, took it on a road test to warm it up and retested and passed.
You won't find anything off the shelf, need to make one.
Need to ask yourself if it's worth causing yourself MOT grief and an engine management light for not really any benefit though....
Anyone done anything aftermarket with the sound deadening at the rear of the engine bay that covers the brake lines etc? mine is falling to bits and I've got the engine out currently. I've sent an enquiry to RPD to see if its still available and cost but was interested to see if anyone has done...