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It would. What is it at now?

Yeah I'd say crank seal too. Box, clutch and flywheel off job.

A lot of toe out?

Not sure what the DF176 is. At least the light is off though.

Take the car to them and they'll see for themselves. No come back then.

Didn't know you could powder coat plastic :unsure: Thought it had to be metal as it's an electrostatic process.

Ahh so the wheels are powdercoated and the caps are painted?

They need to paint them at the same time as the wheels or get the paint mix abolutely the same as what was used. Anything else and they'll look different. Painted plastic does tend to look a little different, but not as much as in your pics.

All ph2 sports are 25mm inner iirc.

You'll need to set the preload once they're on the car. With it jacked up you want to wind the collar up to the spring so that it just stops any vertical play on the spring. Then move the lower collar up so it just touches the top collar. Now wind the top collar up again until you can get the...

Yeah new screen or you could get it reconfigured so that it doesn't have auto lights anymore. Turn the passenger door switch back on and clear the codes and rescan. That should tell you what it is and what to look for then.

Light will only stay off if it's been fixed otherwise it'll keep seeing a fault every time. I can have a look at the airbag faults with rstuner if you're anywhere near Warrington.

The airbag switch that you can turn off on the passenger door, is it off? It's something to do with that. The serv light will be for the light/rain sensor as you said.

Have you made sure the subframe is the same width? Otherwise you'll have problems with driveshaft length and all sorts.

Leave them as they came from factory, it's about right as it is height wise.

Held in by a circlip. New design is miles better and prevents this happening.

Older, as in the f4r ?

Have you tried rebuilding the calipers with fresh seals?

Fuel would stick to the walls instead of atomising properly is my understanding.

Mine felt similar when it blew the seal on the pump round track. To the point that you could hardly steer. I take it yours isn't leaking?

It's not bad mate, but tbh the wheels that were on the front have dropped off beading wise when cleaning and that's only after 2 track days. They claim upto 350°c and it's probably on the limit for track day use. I tend to top it up after a clean with fk1000p too.

I did think about using it on the trim. Wasn't sure if it'd last, i'm sure i've seen them say somewhere that it has different binding agents in. Will give it a go.

I've used the Gyeon Rim on my track wheels and it's good stuff. Need to try Trim.

Even though it says 182 it should still be relevant for your 172.

https://www.cliosport.net/threads/clio-182-upgraded-cps-loom-wiring-diagrams-ecu-pinout.790043/post-11040623

Was that hot i take it? 29 hot seemed to give me even temps when measured with the pyrometer (full geek mode).

Yeah i've got them on the Clio's track wheels. They are good for the money. What sort of pressure did you run them at on this?

Tyres don't even look worn! Looks like they'll last you ages.

Sounds like this inside

Yeah mine is non-resonated. 98dB on the static test.