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Are you a retired architect? Love the colour, but agree with DocRollo, it does look chavvy with the canards etc.

I can understand if it has sentiMENTAL value. But it's a Clio. Spend the money on something memorable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found I couldn't gauge the amount coming out properly and thus couldn't work out how much I'd applied in which area. Makeup pads had X number of dabs against the product I'm using and that gets me closer to guaranteeing even coverage.

Yes. It's not quite as revolutionary as you'd hope, sadly. I'd stick to makeup pads.

Rim wax is useless. PBWS is an old favourite and the smell is just divine. AFMR is highly regarded. Megs I don't know. However, they are all products that don't need a lot of prep (a good thing) but will need reapplying every 3-6 months, depending on car use.

Not really - your bodywork won't experience the same temperatures your wheels are exposed to.

G5 is the glass and perspex treatment ;) C5 or CarPro DLUX are good shouts. If you feel you need to add something on top of this, you'll (as you've already suggested) need a high temp sealant. No better than fk1000p.

That's a nice idea actually, cheers.

Which one, Scott?

I thought the difference was that one is pre-mixed and ready to spray, the other needs mixing to the correct ratios?

It was indeed... This is after a pass with a light cut lad and polish with DA; After hand polishing for a while so I could drive the damn car... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Long time no speak buddy - you well? I tried to remove Hydr02 with a hand pad and an AIO (Triple) with little effect. It would have taken forever!

Because of the salt ;) it's not ideal to wash your car with Fairy, and by wash I mean contact washing. Not a jet over with a lance.

APC does not remove this. Fairy isn't an APC. It contains salts to remove crud from your crockery - it will thus not be any good for the cars paint (although that Scooby is pretty marred already, sorry James!). Tesco Daisy is perhaps what you guys are thinking of.

Unfortunately this stuff does react to certain toppings or can be susceptible to time it's left on the car - my car required a full going over with the DA when I tried to top C2V3 with it a year or two back. I recently used it on a never detailed new (to me) Golf and it works wonderfully. It...

Nice haul. Usual thing with "All In Ones" - they're not as good as dedicated products. Tardis and IronX remain the best.

Edit - re-read the description, ignore me! Sounds interesting!

Any pictures after a drive, i.e. showing the amount of dust and dirt oil attracts?!

C4 will not degrade when exposed to even the most harsh TFR due to its make up - it is chemical resistant. If the application became blotchy, it's unfortunately more likely there were parts of your surface that did not bond to the C4 (or rather it to the surface).

his does indeed work, but as you say, it takes high heat and a lot of checking.

Really...? Not true - TFR does not remove C4 as it forms a crystaline barrier. C4 will also not bring back the backness of plastics, nor will DLUX. You need to clean and prep the area then apply these products. If your plastics are very faded, Solution Finish is the best course of action.

My envy brushes haven't moved from the shelf recently. A mix of Wheel Woolies and my slide lock brush is all I tend to need, fella.

Don't worry about it. It's not worth the brain space...

You've done nothing wrong. It's the supposed "professionals" that state 500 grit is suitable for use on a plastic headlight that really should be ashamed. Much like CarPlan selling brick acid as wheel cleaner...

I'd presumed he meant his home oven based on the hilariously slap dash approach above 😂

Then you put plastic in an oven... 😂 you really could not write this s**t. Read up kids, there's a pro amongst us.

Yes you're quite right, that totally proves there are no deep scratches in your plastic headlights after a going over with a grade far too coarse for application... what was I thinking (sunlight, LED, street lamps, any source of light that shows the irreparable damage you have caused...). :up:

And I've been detailing for 13, but thanks for sharing... Gents, if you really believe 500/800 grit wet and dry paper isn't going to permanently mark your plastic headlights, you're bonkers. But each to their own. 2/3/4k is all that is required if you take your time and don't want to damage them.

800 is far, far, far too coarse. Hence there is some cloudiness in your last photo. You'll be leaving behind irreparable damage!

I can appreciate cleaning it up and making it look more presentable, from a detailing business point of view... but lowering it, debadging, tuning it of any kind... drive the flipping garage queen more!