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The grease will reduce the friction thus allowing the bolt to be tightened more, which applies more clamping force and stretching the bolt.
That's why ARP supply special grease with their studs and bolts so that the torque can be replicated the same on each fastener.
You assumed I didn't torque them, but I did.
After they had come loose the copper grease was cleaned off and then they were re torqued. They have since never come loose.
Same reason I don't copper grease wheel bolts.
Bit of penetrant spray should be fine, they can be tight though. Heat as mentioned should work.
Don't copper grease them when putting them back in. Had them come loose doing that.
Rust! Inside of the sills, but you need the rear inside door cards/trim off to see properly.
Apart from that they're not that different from the 182.
Some have issues with the idle control valve with it being cable throttle.
Make sure they're the 14mm bolts, as powerflex do a 12mm too and they get sent out in error sometimes.
Just make sure you torque the bolts properly to their spec. I think the camber bolts are 140nm and the normal lower bolt will be 180nm.