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😂 Is this how it's going to go every year haha

The 6P and Pixel XL have both been great for me. Will see what the XL 2 gets priced at and see if it's worth selling my one. I got alright money for my 6P last time.

The 6P and Pixel XL have both been great for me. Will see what the XL 2 gets priced at and see if it's worth selling my one. I got alright money for my 6P last time.

Quite like my Pixel XL tbh. Doubt I'll get the new one though as no doubt it'll be priced like the iPhone.

I don't really buy a phone to sit and look at it. :tongueclosed:

New Google phone launch 4th October.

Ahh right, not what i thought then.

I'm sure Mark's 172 Cup was a 172 block with 197 head and cams which was timed up to group n spec.

Not really sure on bodies for these.

I'm sure you can do it with standard cams can't you @NorthloopCup?

Similar to what the rally engines do really. Group N timing I believe.

Timing adjustment will probably be your biggest gain, advancing the inlet cam a few degrees. Followed by a remap to suit with a slightly raised rev limiter.

I'm in Warrington if you're ever about, I can have a look to see if I can reset it for you. There's a Dyno day on at EFI on Sunday which I'll be at if you want to pop down.

Had the £49.99 standard version on pre order for a while now. Looking forward to it. Not been on Pcars for ages.

I think you turn the ignition on, so press and hold the start button without pressing the clutch or brake until the power comes on. Then scroll through using the right stalk until you get to the service message, then press and hold the trip reset button on the dash until the message starts to...

My mate with a Megane has done a few days with full slicks and no cage, no one has said anything yet.

There's a repair guy on eBay, you send it off and he fixes it.

https://www.cliosport.net/threads/nialls-bg-182.804998/page-3

Yeah it controls the speed I think. The heat could be something else. Have a look at @Niall's project thread for the fix on the other thing. It's in the driver's footwelll.

With it being full speed as well, that sounds like the resistor pack.

Yeah, the top mount never sat flush on the body when the car was on the ground.

You could be lazy and support the engine from underneath and remove the upper engine mount, then lower it back down. That'd probably work too.

Probably £60-70 a month for the X 😂

Apparently the fail on stage at the launch was due to someone/people handling the phone beforehand and it was trying to scan their face. It asks for a passcode after 2 unsuccessful attempts, which when the guy came to use it it did. That's an unconfirmed explaination, but it sounds plausible...

It'll take minutes with a welder.

Should be enough room, if not just take the manifold off and drop it down a bit to give you more room. It won't come out without taking the subframe off.

The Dunlops are about the same price i think. I thought the Yokos were more than that.

Full speed or coming out hot even though it's set to min?

Yeah, get the biggest nut you can find that will fit in the bolt hole and that you can still get a socket on once welded in place. Weld the centre up fully, job done.

Yeah slicks are cheap. How much are A048's? Have you considered Dunlop DZ03G or Nankang AR1?