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That doesn't need a full spray or replacement bonnet. Type in stone chip into detailing world for some easy to follow guides. It is a minor issue - replacement and resprays are major solutions...
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=20127
No, dry in, but can be applied when wet. Depends on the outcome of the drying/water spotting point Chris made in the other thread. If Hydro2 can be sprayed on, PW'd off but then still needs drying (hard water in the Sarf y'know ;) ) then it's comparable in my eyes.
Might buy some and use it on...
Well I swear by C2 for top ups as I use it everywhere. Carbon is still holding strong though. Be interested to see the longevity and self-cleaning abilities, if it's being likened to a ceramic sealant.
Some metal polishes contain abrasives, so it would start the process but take a while. Presume this has been mentioned as most metal polishes also contain chemical cleaners which might help to remove some of the hazing.
IMO 1000 if really necessary, 2000-3000, then polish with a machine polisher.
Interesting, Chris.
To add something to the debate/review/conversation, thoughts on this versus GT's C2? As that's something I swear by at the moment...
Don't apologise lad, that's what forums are for.
It is the opinion of most pro detailers (and decent amateurs) that such harsh abrasives are just not required. Anything less than 1000 grade wet and dry/sandpaper will leave scratches in your plastics that you will not be able to get out through...
Biased, but Audi?
Suzuka and dolphin grey, sprint blue, Milano red, imola yellow, the orange, of which the name escapes me... Few others like the deep red that Jim White had on his 8l s3...
I can completely understand the pull of a massively tuned RS4/RS6. As an Audi nut, I know where you're coming from. A guy who looks after our Audis has a standard B6 S4 cab (bar an exhaust), a monstrous b5 S4 and an RS4 avant B5... love any one of those.
Money no object, I'd be supercharging...
Last statement is correct, Tim. You need to clean the plastics, rather than covering - as you've found out, they'll only cover for a limited period of time.
Clean using APC, Linseed Oil, WD40, peanut butter or a pencil rubber - all should remove the white marks. Then clean properly, IPA wipe...
10x the looks, better handling, more road presence... Just some of the reasons I'd have an R8 over the RS4/6.
The gen pub still appear to buy them, so I'm guessing others agree!
Sorry Gav, MicroFibre.
Re: lacquering them, I agree in principle, but would suggest to go down the route of C5 from GTechniq afterwards. This will seal the wheels and prevent further oxidisation.
http://gtechniq.com/shop/3s-for-cars/exterior-coatings/c5-wheel-armour/
For metal, I haven't seen a product beat AF's Mercury. If it's tough grime, 00 grade wire wool for added bite, but as Aucky recently found, finishing down by MF is the best option.
Different product via DA Dave.
Got my new place sorted so going to have more time at the weekends (no traveling to spend it with the missus)/space to bring my products down south. We'll put a date in the dairy for a coffee and chat/product swap etc.