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Nope, if you look at where my arrow is pointing they are in there. It will become clear when you get back under the car trust me

Yeh the extra nut on the passenger side you mention is holding on a bracket to secure the pas pipes I believe from memory, remove that first and then you can get to the nut you need to shift to get the bush out I can't remember anything being in the way of the driver's side upper bolt, I...

Take a look at this pic and itl give you an idea, it's the bolt which clamps the front of the clamp to the main bracket which you have just unbolted from the subframe and squeezes the bush in place. With those 4 main bolts removed you should now be able to wiggle the steering rack about to get...

Seriously mate it's easy providing you've got a rachet with some long enough extensions and a rachet spanner. I found it a complete pain in the arse but I went in blind, if I'd gone in knowing what I've just told you I recon I could have had it done in an hour.

I had no issues with goodridge. Fitted perfect

Also, one of the bolts to the clamp which goes to the subclframe can't be accessed via a hole and deep socket, I believe it's the upper bolts, you will need a rachet spanner unless you want to spend hours with a regular spanner as you can only get a few mm of movement each time and there's a lot...

This

Hertz do a nice small 8" enclosed sub which might fit.

I found that 2 really wide wallpaper scrapers, one at the top and one below worked to get it out, I initially tried a flat screwdriver but stopped when I saw a slight crack appearing. Be very gentle otherwise it will break and people are wanting over 100 quid for them on eBay now

I wouldn't worry about it mate. I ran my old 1.2 for years like that, just accept that it's a slow car and save up for your next car. There's really not a lot you can do to a 1.2 to make it any faster, just enjoy it for what it is.

Yeah, don't expect the car to be any faster, if anything it could make it slower due to heat soak but itl sound good

J&R do em

I wouldn't bother. They cost mega money for not much gain

Bin it and go epas

Lol try another garage. If the cat is blowing, either buy a decat pipe or buy a new cat, I bought a brand new one from cats2u for about 90 quid and it was fine. If it's on the original exhaust, it could be blowing from anywhere though. Fitting is not a big job, it's a bit fiddly on a 172 as...

Decat will make it more throaty, but alot louder. sounds good as it is

The pms AC delete bins the tensioner

I miss it, even though it makes it a pain in the arse getting to work

Lol my 172 was exactly the same with 2 odd ones like those. I had to replace one with a eurocarparts one and it was the same as the one on the right I think OEM is the left one, but could be wrong

I never knew the satnav was an option on the 172!

Looks like a pms race manifold

I watched that the other night. Really good tips. I've tried the tooth pick method a few times, much better than brushing on, but it still creates a peak

Looks pretty cool that and nice healthy figures

Why not flog the lot and just get it mapped with the 197 cams? You might be pleasantly surprised. And itl be far more reliable than some bodies originally designed for a bike I would have thought. I planned to do the same but just couldn't justify the costs as the car was only worth a grand or...

Some of the threads I read im sure that 197 cammed cars with the special timing were performing just as good as rs2'd ones. I'd stick with your bodies as you already have the management anyway and they will offer more potential. Not that much more, as it seems even bodied cars don't make...

From what I remember the rs2 will run with a mapped OEM ECU. The bodies will require aftermarket management due to the map sensor required on the OEM ECU.

Yeah outers are dead easy, although when I did mine both bolts snapped off as they were completely rusted to the wishbone, so have some nuts and bolts to hand for when you fit the new ones.

Much worse. Rack bushes are a piece of cake on stands. I only managed it as I'd got the subframe lowered anyway so access was much better and could get the mole grips above it to clamp it, Id hate to attempt it on stands with the subframe in position as there will be very little room to get...

Lol I spent hours trying to do my inner ARB bushes while I'd got the subframe lowered doing my clutch. It was a worse job than getting the gearbox out tbh. Ended up sending my dad out for a big g clamp and and extra pair of mole grips - essential items, but once I had them it took literally...

I work in a school and rock up in my civic with a huge rear wing and a loud exhaust, that gets some looks lol.