Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Could always sell them on when your done. I bet somebody would pay 100 for a set of genuine tools.
Think I paid 145 from rpd and sold them to my mate for 60 quid, but that was a mates rate
Nah dephaser isn't a must but for the sake of 100 quid do you really want to take it all apart of it starts to rattle again in 12 months time?
If your doing the work yourself then I wouldn't bother, but for the amount of labour garages charge for the full job I wouldn't want to be paying it twice!
The usual is just the crank bolt, dephaser, cam seals, cam seals are a must really, and come in a pack with new nuts and bolts for the pulleys
Water pump can be done without touching the cambelt anyway so that's not an issue.
Perhaps worth resealing the rocker cover, seems to be a common area...
I was under the impression that the genuine Renault locking pin deals with it no problem, but I think id jam the fly with a big screwdriver and keep the load on the screwdriver but keep the pin in place to keep the timing in the correct position
Yeh beautiful colour, I paid over the odds for it but there was only 112 made so I wanted the exclusivity of it.
I believe they did a similar colour in the type S for a longer run, but they look nowhere near as good as the R
Since buying my civic I've spent about 1500 quid on it to get it to a standard I wanted.
Mugen grill
Mugen spoiler
Double din head unit with a decent amp and door speakers
Cobra sport cat back
Luckily it already came modded with an ecutec remap, mfactory LSD, fresh wheel refurb and a hks...
An rs tuner module might be an option for you then, only about 200 new from fastchip
https://www.fastchip.nl/shop/clio/clio-2-products/rstuner-kit-detail
I can't see how they wouldn't fit. Renault parts direct list the same rear discs for the 172 and 182.
I used mintex on my 172 and the bearings were still going strong when I sold it.
Quality of jr isn't bad, it's just weather they send you the correct part that is the issue lol
If it's too low you could end up bottoming out the joints if your running alot of camber too.
Genuine second hand ones are probably all shagged by now unless you can find some off a low mileage.
When I did mine I completely bolloxed up and spun the steering wheel loads trying to reattach the pinch bolt before I worked out how it went back together.
Completely knackered up the position sensor. But I put it all back together, centered the wheels and took off the steering angle sensor and...
What issue you having?
Providing you didn't move the steering wheel, then lower the subframe back down and make sure the steering rack is facing where it was before and then raise the subframe making sure that the universal joint connection goes back together properly, might need to wiggle the...
Might be worth getting it on a decent alignment machine before hand to see how much camber and toe you've already got on the back they always seem to be out on the back anyway
Not sure, probably not as even if the abs unit is on the opposite side, the sensors still plug in at the back axel anyway, but I'm not too sure to be honest
I did my grab handles on the Clio and got a decent finish.
The key is prepping the surface, it took me hours of sanding to get all that nasty sticky mess off.