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Cheap but I bet it sounds horrendous

Lol, but 4 people told you not Including myself and that was before you started getting funny about it. Alot of garages forget to refit them when changing the rear discs which is why yours are missing, but they were there from the factory (please dont argue this, they were there) and it causes...

Gutted I drilled my original one out last year when it collapsed, I had no idea they were worth so much, i bought a brand new cats2u one for 100 quid lol

The spacers are required, it's no bother, just accept it, buy them, fit them and move on. Or have a go at grinding your brand new discs and ruining them when the reason they dont fit is because you need the spacers..

Cable is a pain to change weather the box is in or out, box out doesnt really help much so I'd leave it for now unless its showing signs of wear

Really lol, specialist insurance I assume? How old is he?

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy a tce? By the time you've found a tce engine with the ECU, loom etc and fitted it, then declared it to your insurance who will rip you off, I bet would cost you the same as just getting a tce. Young drivers get ripped off as it is on insurance, I bet as soon...

I bet your insurance on a modified boosted 1.2 won't be cheap either tbh.

Doubt it, not for less than the car is worth anyway. Even if it was a straight bolt on, which it won't be, you've then got to get a manifold with link pipe for the exhaust, ecu and wiring for it, mapping etc. Just buy a 172 if you want more power, can get one for about 500 quid these days lol.

Changed the oil on mine loads of times and never took the cap off the breather. But then again the pipe I use to fill from the front doesn't create an air tight seal

I'm not a fan of claying unless you plan to do a correction afterwards. I've found decon product like iron out seem to get rid of most of the bonded contaminants anyway. I'm a big fan of super resin polish, fantastic stuff especially if topped with a sealent. I recently did my car with srp...

No guide needed really , just unplug it, get a massive spanner on it and pray it comes out. Last one I did was completely welded in, as I finally got it turning, thinking I'd won, I got it out to find that the threads had come out with it, luckily the cat was knackered anyway. I think the...

Interesting. I can't see them making that much difference over new OEM mounts though if they arent bolted in like most solid top mounts

Yeh. You won't loose it all, but you'll loose a lot out of that side

PMS is the one you want for track use

Ah, I get you

My clutch was higher after fitting a new valeo. I think the reason they go low is because the springs on the diagram flex more on the old ones before releasing the clutch. Higher the better for me, makes changes much easier.

Might sound a daft question but what difference would this make as surely the 6 bolts would stop it moving anyway so an extra dowel wouldn't do anything?

Genuine Renault parts are very well priced to be honest if your going for an OEM restore. Elf oil never failed me but any decent brand 5w40 will be fine

Sounds normal, I'm pretty sure that 172 shocks aren't gas filled so wouldn't come all the way back up like your expecting. As far as I'm aware the only fronts which are gas filled are the 182 cup shocks.

Sounds about right, although I found that the subframe needed lowering both sides to get the passenger side to drop enough to get the box out. I also just used a jack under the sump with some wood to spread the load. I've fitted 2 valeo clutches and never had an issue with the piece you wack...

If it's anything like a 172 then the whistle your hearing actually comes from the wing mirror

RTR is a top bloke, used him a few times

Good effort. Beats taking the subframe down as that's a right pain in the arse if the bolts spin (which they will)

The small idler is also included in the kit

As a bare minimum I'd be changing the idler pulley and the belt before driving it again. If that snaps there's a good chance itl take the cam belt out too The full aux kit is easy enough to change, but does require jacking up of the engine to get at the tensioner bolts so id only attempt it if...

Just have a look under the bonnet with a torch to look down the side of the engine where the belt is

Or a layer of 2k clear coat after you have sanded all the cloudiness off. Wax them all you want but theyl still go cloudy again pretty quick as the factory protection will have been scrubbed off

Looks a great product but I never had a problem with the powerflex blue series. Clios are hardly refined anyway so who cares about a bit of vibration lol

What's wrong with it? They aren't a common failure on 182's. From what I've read those stainless ones on eBay aren't great quality