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ive done around the bulkhead and down to the footwells, but not on the flat section - as i ran out of dynmat extreme at that point. Sounds like a good idea!! Rorrie

thats really tidy, i like that!!! Is that Tej old sub? what happened to the W6? Rorrie

there is also a run of sticky stuff (cant think of a better way to describe it!!) that holds the card in place a bit more, i found once the card had been removed a few times it lost its stickyness(!) and so the card ratteled a bit more, so i added draft excluder to the card to cure it - works...

there are 4 tork screw on the bottom of the door card, and then you have to remove the 2 peices of trim above the door card (one that is where a manual wing mirror adjuster would be the other runs up the otherside of the window) and then there are a few clips that pop off and the card lifts out...

put it this way, you are prob not drawing more than your alt can deal with, even if your fuses for your amps add upto 80amps you wont be drawing that, that is the max. Seriously just upgrade the big three see how that goes

ive got about that much on my doors and bit more in my boot, well worth it IMO, but it depends how serious you are, i would defo do the doors

how much do your amps draw? what are the fuse ratings on them? as i doubt youd need to upgrade your alternator, if you upgrade the wiring (the big three, do a search about it) will help allot.

my appologies, just realised that that thread has been removed!

why cant people read the thread that states - read before posting, how many times does this type of thread come up!

EDIT - 1fast6 - ive just re-read your post, and had a look/read at afew bits, a Joule is a watt second hence a watt is a joule per second or even a second is a joule per watt they are all equivalent statements and ESR is quite simple, its the resistance required to turn a source (batt, cap...

ok, just spotted that, il email the guy who wrote it, but does it sway the figures the other way? i have used a cap before, did bugger all, upgrading tb3 is a better option, but i will also say that i have first hand knoledge that batcaps work, well, very well infact under large pressure...

^ yep senconded, but pete please state where the theory is flawed? coundt find it? also the main similarity of a cap and a batcap is the charge/dischage, as they batcap (400) is 200 times larger in capacity than the average cap, it is unlikely that is will be dischaged compleatly (unless...

its a battery that can discharge as fast as a cap, a 400 is equal to having 200 1f caps, and can give 400amps for 8 seconds! so why would this be no good either? it as the advantages of a cap with 200 times the capacity to the normal sized cap for car audio? And on a diff note, why wouldnt...

^^ , have you read the threads i linked to? have you tried both? have u even heard of a batcap? Id like to see your info from this, prove me wrong.

did you cover over the bottom of the 6*9s?

quite pointless really, they dont do nearly as much as people think, better to get a batcap ( http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3721http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3721 ) soooo much better - see...

polk momo stuff is good stuff, wont be huge bass ect, but it will be great SQ, i used to run a mm100 sub was great but i like a bit more volume! and polk momo mm455 comps - which are great the sub takes 400 cont. watts and that amp will give it 200 (maybe more) so might be a bit on the low...

^ i suggest you read the poat then

Final_Maxim - well, the door card is ratteling, as its hitting a hrad surface, normal sound deadening will stop sound levaing/ratting door skin, the door cra dstill going to hit the sound deadening and make a noise, try draft excluder on the dorr card to stop rattels ( ive got both dynamat and...

breaking the rules? its a standard rule, power cables cause interferance on rca cable

cool, well, im a big advocate of building own boot builds! (mine is the blue on with the crystal sub above) it looks good tho, looks like one massive port!!

roamer - these are fairly decent for under £100!! http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3350http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3350 JoelDee - get a set of comps, wire one side to a channel each, then bridge the rear 2 channels (if 4...

looking good, what your running there? how capacity is that capacitor? is that a port where the box meets the seats or is that just a lid?

no, there is a bar that runs across the base if the boot, to stop anything in the boot hitting the seats under breaking. and it bolts into the boot. i not sure how great a point this is to earth, try it in the other place i sugested and see if that imporves things

as a rule from dls, in small cars, sub should face back of the car (so should port) or they should both point to the roof larger cars (with sealed boot) should poit forwards (to driver) and in an estate they should both point back. once this is done, if bass is anchoring in the back, flip...

ok, you dont want a long earth cable, and keep it (and the 12v) away from your rca cables. You could try earthing to the bolt that goes through the lugage bar (although put the ring terminal under the luage bar)

no worries!!

a good idea, old idea, but this seems more user friendly, although its a f**king stupid name, it only really apeals to younger guys but it could be great for anyone who drives long distances!

well that amp and the xover have gone now (to the garage!!) and there is one of these bad boys in there http://www.arcaudio.com/arc/navigation/xxk4050prodp.htmhttp://www.arcaudio.com/arc/navigation/xxk4050prodp.htm and next month there will be one of these as well...

pete - not true, http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3014http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3014 these are brilliant, but the are subs, not full range speakers. On a whole tho, they are rubbish, buy a cheap sub and amp (2nd hand eg an re...