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exhaust blows normally just give a high lambda reading e.g 1.030 doesnt normally affect c.o. find some1 with a scan tool and a scope to test sensors. gets pricey just changing things! test the in and out temps of cat before you replace it i use a cheap infrared one of e-bay cost bout £20. did...
hard to say without seeing it, my guess would be the crank sensor/tdc sensor breaking down when hot. check the sensor loom aswell as these go brittle with age.
take the drive belt off first and start when cold and see if it still does it. i had the same problem, i tried changing the power steering fluid but didnt help, then started it with the belt of and it still did it! turned out to be the de-phaser pulley.
cant say ive ever adjusted any but i had the same with mine and it turned out to be the inner rack joints/tie rod. to prove it you can get a mate to wiggle the steering wheel gently while you hold the tie rod, on the joint part of the tie rod(its under the rack gaitor tho) with the car on its...
get a drive belt, tensioner shocker+wheel and the little deflector idler wheel kit from a motor factor .you need a shallow haif inch drive bar to release the tensioner. there is no room so its a bit tight but possible! check the water pump and pas pump while the belts off!
if its the 1.2 16v then theres a bit of a wiring issue that puts the engine into limp mode. the ecu is on the back of the inlet manifold and the l/h plug when looking at the engine has glue on the wiring that melts onto the ecu pins causing a bad connection. codes like throttle body or pedal pot...
i had this on mine! as above response says its normally where the passengers knock the 3 relays under the glovebox when they get in the car. if you look under the dashboard/glovebox near the passenger door end you will see the relays plugged into the underside of body control module and fuse...
hi mate, sounds like it run dry to me! i wouldnt risk just rebuilding 5th coz all the metal swarf will have got around the whole box. the box looks worse than it actually is to get out, the only tricky bit is dropping the subframe coz the bolts corrode into the nuts in the chasis legs. use the...
hi mate , the gearstick position can be adjusted underneath the gearbox where the gearchange rod connects to the gearbox selector. its just a clamp with a 13mm nut. if its out it may mean its had a clutch/gearbox changed, sub frame out, worn linkage or been knocked at some point. easy to adjust tho!
injectors seem common on these, i just connect a multimeter on ohms scale to the injector and check the reading. i think on a 1k ohm scale it should be 16ohms i think but compare the reading with the other 3. if its faulty it will be a totally differnt reading e.g 0 ohms. hope that helps.
ive done afew of these lately at work, ive found its the loom plug to the ecu(with nasty metal cover) i think its the left hand one. when you remove it from the ecu the glue inside the plug seems to melt and you get a bad connection. when you remove the plug look at the ecu pins. if there...
hi mate ive come across this quite a few problems like this on mot failures, 9/10 its an air leak in the exhaust the lambda sensor can affect it but normally the c.o reading too. if there was a fault code stored for the lambda sensor dont assume its at fault without testing it, and that...
hi mate, to save wasting time go to a garage with some good diagnostics kit to find out. there are hundereds of fault codes so dont waste time guessing. if the garage is any good they will have a scope to test signals to and from sensors. be warned tho 9 times out of 10 the fault code is a...
sounds like an outer c.v joint to me, the crappy plastic c.v boots pull of the joint and it fills up with dirt and water and eventually runs dry and wears out. jack the side up you think the noise is coming from and spin the wheel on full lock both ways and if it is the outer joint you will hear...