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You can make your own there's a guide on here somewhere, bit of a pain but worth the effort

Huh weird they cut it like that eh? Might be worth double checking it's the earth with a circuit tester Best way would be to reattach it to the metal spade connector in the plug, if that's not present you could (if your putting in an aftermarket head unit) just cut the earth wire on the stereo...

here ya go goes opposite yellow, you can tell iv been in there a few times by my remembering that llf

I think it goes in the hole opposite the yellow wire, maybe look at the stereo going in see where the wire needs to be? Il pop up some pics in 20

Get a long bar and lever the wishbone down, just did mine last week (unlowered lol) takes quite a bit of force mate

Is that not the earth that should go in behind the yellow power lead? If no one answers soon il pop out and take a pic of mine for ya

Stud extractor? Goes on the end of a drill in reverse, not the strongest though, could try welding a nut to it. Failing that a garage I guess, but a real one, not kwik f**k lol

you mean snail trails on the passenger seat like?

hey mate, im not entirely sure so hopefully someone more knowledgable will be along soon. my understanding is that these springs would git ok (its the shocks that are not interchangable) however as the cup springs are lower already you wouldnt get the full 40mm, but it would still drop it a...

Nah ball joints were replaced for the MOT and wheel bolts are fine :dapprove: There is a little play in the driveshafts so I think theyl need replaced in the not too distant future but it's not enough to make this racket, I think iv maybe narrowed it down to the pish raceland coilovers that came...

:o ye I just realised that I misread it first time lol

I'm thinking this now anyway lol ^

I read it all mate but then I read the others? So I should only go for 172 cup, because non cup has a different damping rate and 182 cup won't fit? Il measure tomoro to be sure

much appreciated fellas, so i need 172 or 182 cup suspension, il aim for 172 cup to be 100 percent but im looking for used so its handy to know the options :cheers:

is that right ye? i thought cups were 60mm non cups 54? :S

ah happy days, iv already tried that no luck :dead:

Hey Friends :cool: I bought my (latest) 172 cup a while back which came with raceland coilovers (which raise my insurance and IMO do nothing good for the handling.) Anyway theres now a fair amount of noise coming from one of the struts (I think) so I'm going to do what I've been thinking about...

Did you find the problem mate? I'm having the same issue now :(

would be an MOT failure? and lights on the dash are bloody annoying ...

good thing i was here to help eh? :P

hey matey welcome to the site, good luck with the build buddy :D

it might be possible to clear it by disconnecting the batter for half an hour? i put the question mark because this is a fairly unfounded guess mind ...

sounds like a coil pack, ht lead, or spark plug to me, the way to narrow it down is pull off the ht leads one at a time and see if the problem gets worse, if it does you need to check if there is a spark at each point between the 3, so coil to HT, if theres no spark its almost certainly the lead...

Yep its fairly common I think water seeps into it, might be worth putting some silicon or similar on the circuit board before fitting? Thats my plan for the next one anyway :) You don't need it for the MOT though, would likely just be an advisory or not mentioned at all

pop them on gumtree mate, at the right price they will sell in a day

The helpfulness of ClioSport members never fails to impress me .... You need to use a high temp paint mate, there are specific paints for doing engine components, have a look in the likes of halfrauds for a better idea of whats available

Can be a good opportunity to tidy up the callipers, whip them off and go over them with a wire grind wheel, check and clean the pistons etc. And yep, copper grease should keep the brake squeal at bay :)

Right 2 things, first the correct size for the front is a 7mm thread with an 8mm head, thats a defo, I BELIEVE the back is the same but as I couldny get the bugger out I canny confirm that. The other thing (ironically) is a tip/suggestion for getting snapped/sheared bleed nipples off, it worked...

hey sounds to me like you need to bleed those brakes, if nothing else its a good/easy starting point. the brake lights are not affected by the braking system so the problem is unrelated, the lights work off a switch/plunger thing that sits on top of the brake pedal, theres a guide on here on...

a cheeky wee good morning bump for this as im away to try find some :boring: