Search results

The belt I just bought for a Ph 2 is 1662, not much difference there (2mm).

It's here: http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=1485

I would say the belt kit would be of good quality, like it says on that page, Continental is a renowned company. Looks like it comes with the camshaft end caps too which will save you a bit more. You don't get these with the dealer kit. Is the pulley locking tool they quoted you for the cam...

From what I've read there is a solenoid that controls the VVT. It stops it kicking in until the engine is up to temperature so I would say there is an electrical element and a mechanical element to it's operation. Do you still get the sudden surge of power when you hit 4000rpm?

I was hoping you would answer Fred, you seem to be the expert on all things cambelt. I will probably get both the tool and the whole aux belt kit while i'm in the UK then. Thanks

I have just bought a cambelt kit from Renault here in Mexico, cost me 1730 pesos, which is equivalent to 80 quid. I should by 20 and sell them in the UK, haha. Come the aux belt kit, they tell me they don't do a kit, it's all separate parts, the belt was 12 quid, but the tensioner was 185 quid...

You could just have a misfire on one cylinder. Have you tried disconnecting the plugs one at a time when idling?

Is that part no. for the aux belt with or without air-con?

If you drove it with 4 litres of oil missing you should be more than unloading your bowels. That leaves less than 1 litre.

The owners manual for a Ph2 in Mexico says 63,000km or 4 years. Is there any significant difference between a Ph1 and Ph2 engine?

Why don't you replace it with the K-Tec uprated one for a few quid more?

Yeah, the Powerflex website is all yellow and blue, maybe you got Chinese ones. They are only £41 direct from Powerflex.

Does anyone have the dealer price for the cambelt kit (172) nd the axbelt kit with tensioner?

I find the auto lights annoying, every bridge of any size that you drive under makes them come on. The car in front probably thinks your flashing at him/her. All that turning on and off is what shortens the life of any bulb, and these xenons are expensive. They are automatically set to auto...

Forgot to mention, I connected my scanner when it wouldn't start and it showed no codes or any problems.

I had exactly that problem a couple of weeks ago. Fully charged the battery, but the engine would only turn for a second or so then the starter would drop out. I am sure it was just coincidence, but when I shut the drivers door it started immediately. I tried again with the door open and it...

Not sure about Clio's but on most cars the water gets in aroud the rear lights. Put somebody in the boot with a torch and spray the whole rear with a hose.

It's not the infamous engine mount problem is it? That's exactly where the noise seems to come from on mine. Does it knock on acceleration/de-acceleration?

I tried the engine moving trick, but all I could move was the collar around the upper engine mount, not the position of the mount itself. I cut a short length of 1 inch heater hose, squashed it flat and jammed it between the mount and the rear part of the collar (where the small red arrow is in...

I don't worry to much about warranties, chances are something will happen the day after the warranty expires or it won't be covered anyway. I've done all the servicing on my 172 since new. I intend to do the cambelt myself next year.

I have the same problem, tried to move the engine forward today. The metal part around the rubber mount can be moved, but it makes no difference to the engine position. Is the plate below this supposed to move to, seems like it's pegged to the body somehow and it has small lugs sticking up that...

It's not normally a good idea to use grease or mineral oil on rubber or plastic as it may cause them to swell or perish. I maybe wrong, this might be a special rubber, but I would use silicon oil. Get an aerosol and spray it on the lower arm bushes and anti-roll bar bushes. I did mine yesterday...

You've got that back to front, air travelling over a curved surface causes low pressure and hence lift, just like an aeroplane wing. So when you are moving the air is actually trying to pull the bonnet open, not force it shut.

Standard Clios are built in Mexico, but the Sports are all imported, so I suspect the parts are coming from France. Climate is pretty temperate in most of the central part of the country (0 to 30 celsius). Maybe they just make allowances for those parts of the country that are stinkin hot.

Thanks for the feedback. Took the switch out and gave it a bit of a beating and I can get it to work now. No doubt they will want the equivalent of £50 here in Mexico, since they wanted £100 for just one of the pair of horns. How can they justify the price for a 5 bob switch that, it seems...

Can some one tell me if the switch pops out after you press it, or does it just make momentary contact when it's pushed in? My hazards have stopped working and I think it's the switch.

Why does my maintenance book say 60,000km (37,000 miles) or 4 years for a cambelt? Is it just the way Mexicans drive?

Yeah, right!

I went through a bit of a flood on the road a while back and just afterwards the high note horn stopped working. The low note is still OK. I took it off and checked it direct on the battery and it sort of half worked if I beat it. I assumed the water had done the damage, but after looking...

If I'm heading for the red line, I ain't looking at the dash.