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I was going to upgrade my 11 but might hold off another year if the next ones going to come with Touch ID.
I’ve not plugged in an iPhone since the X for charging so portless makes a lot of sense, improves the ip rating too I imagine.
Weird if they leave the screws in the bottom tho.
Figured I’d pass this on been speaking to a tool supplier today and they’ve told me if your planning on ordering anything and there isn’t stock in the UK it’s a 4 week wait to get stuff in from the EU.
So if you need something desperate it’s worth bearing that in mind.
It’s clearly two parts on the Clio window dude one part is a a bead exactly the same thickness & shape all the way round.
Only way you could achieve that is if it’s preapplied to the window by machine and allowed to set before the windows are bonded in.
Yeah sounds right.
I mean they will just bond back in but the windows will sit deeper into the opening so it depends if that bothers you.
Going to have to do a similar thing with mine, I’ve not decided if it’s worth forking out for new glass fitted yet.
I haven't got any good pictures unfortunately but there's about a 1cm thick rubber seal on the glass which is then bonded to the frame to set the windows the correct distance from the frame.
If you imagine painting something with spray paint that’s exactly how the arm works, the part stays still and you move around it.
Then you can move the part if you need to get something from the bottom for example and the software will be able to join those scans together to make the whole part.
There are a few resin printers so I will be printing some stuff at some point, obviously the data belongs to the company at this point so I can’t take it out the building without paying for it.
We’ve got pretty much everything but I used a hexagon arm to do this so accuracy is in the microns.
That’s just a relatively simple 3D surface model good for checking tolerances vs the manufacturers specs.
Once I’ve got the H&S out the way I’ll be sticking it on the X-ray to see the quality of Renaults casting, if there’s voids etc.
So my new company told me to find something to do this afternoon so I decided to scan up a cup packed hub.
Since my cars currently in pieces I’m aiming to get a full model of the engine done as “learning exercise”.
Minor differences in rebound, I might be talking s**t but I’m sure people used to say the 182s where better with 172 cup shocks.
Tho if it’s for the road your not going to be able to push it enough to notice.
Rust wise no.
but I’m getting it resprayed because every panel needs paint and after discussions with the body shop.
I’ve decided do it once and get it right rather than constant repairs as and when stuff appears.
Cheaper than a Porsche or Alfa gt junior.
Plus It’s the driving experience I keep going back to and imo a future icon.
Guy called Ade Foreman engineering on Facebook & eBay.
Nice chap working out of a small workshop in Telford.
Trouble with games now everyone moves onto the next thing so fast, multiplayer becomes boring within a year because it’s either full of experienced players or noobs.
Bf1 back in the day was epic I wish they would just remake it with a new name... 😂
Shooting someone with the flare gun then...
Unfortunately as already pointed out unless the cars had a charmed life so far the rust has probably already set in and will require removal and repaint.
Other than those mentioned, brake servos, rear brake bias bracket and where the abs pump sits are all spots for rust.
Bumping this anyone recommend one for cleaning out farm machinery/vans etc
Been buying the cheapo screwfix ones but hovering up metal filings, stones etc keeps killing them.
The new mac's come with chips made by Apple themselves so windows might not be able to utilises them efficiently.
The previous had intel the same as a normal laptop.
Autodesk viewer works ok but most of my clients use Navisworks.
If you want to just view stuff any modern laptop will be fine.
If you want to model stuff then you will need something with a bit more power.