Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Just to put that into some sort of context for you mate, here’s how my engine that I built spent its life.
Fully rebuilt using new pistons, rings and bearings.
Everything measured to check for wear - all within manufacturers spec.
After that it went on the rollers at efi for around 20-30...
I had kw v2 on my first cup - which are Koni top adjustables with kw badges.
Ran the rear at full stiff and dialled the fronts to suit my preference.
They work very well. Actually quite a supple ride quality when they’re not set to full stiff as well.
The issue with the ‘oem’ aftermarket clutches are the straps holding the pressure plate and cover assembly together. They use thinner metal on the straps and they break - which is when they machine their way through the bellhousing.
I’d be having a look at the gasket for the coolant thermostat housing mate. It’s oil and coolant in that area, and when they leak, they leak pretty well.
Ah yes, the delightful sound of an 044. Brings back memories!
A mate of mine had a 3dr cosworth with a twin 044 setup. You can imagine the noise that made 😂
😂
In all fairness, you can tune them with the ramp angles and preload to make them a very useful tool, and you can tune them to suit your driving style.
I’ve seen people run maximum preload (120nm), then wonder why they understeer their way through the corners lol