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Just live in a less dodgy area?

You are very welcome (it wasn't me btw)

I've heard of going balls deep, but never nuts only, sounds painful!

Wow, almost a 14 year thread revival!

Maybe just see what they are like first, before assuming they are fucked? If you use the right tools they will come out. Torx bit in an impact driver and I'm sure they will come out. Failing that vice grips as already suggested. Shouldn't be any need to drill them out if done properly.

Does the engine turn over, or does it just click when you turn the key? As already asked, were you with him at the time? Sounds like he could have money shifted it 3rd to 2nd instead of 3rd to 4th!

Ahh fair enough

I've never used it, but the Litchi app offers this function I think. I use Litchi with my Mini SE to get some more features (follow me mode etc) but I've not tried using the Litchi Vue app yet.

An egg smell indicates a knackered cat doesn't it?

Any chance it was massively overfilled with oil? If it's reading ok on the dipstick and there is that much oil on the outside it had to be well above the max mark originally

I have the DTW300Z and used it to strip my R53 down. Not a single bolt it wouldn't undo, even the rear subframe bolts which had never been touched before came straight out without an issue. Have a look on Amazon, that's where I picked mine up from and it was cheaper than the price above.

There are places that will do it. We purchased this from a breakers in Mansfield a few years back. They just cut it off with a plasma torch.

Entirely depends on the insurer. You don't have an automatic right to buy it back so you may have to buy it back through salvage auction. I had to do that a few years back.

Just after a quick bit of advice from any engine builders out there. I'm just in the process of a full refresh of the engine in my R53 Mini cooper s. It's done about 110k and was leaking oil like a sieve so took the decision to take it off the road for a few months to give the whole car a...

Makita fan here, but only because when we first bought our house about 11 years ago I picked up a drill set with charger and 2 batteries. I've since added a 1/4 impact driver, and more recently a 1/2 impact wrench and grinder. https://makitauk.com/product/dtw300z So far the impact gun has...

https://cliosport.net/threads/project-ocd-inferno.740652/

The owner of that is/was a member on here and is local to me

I used to have one of these, I treated myself for my 21st birthday (back in 2003!) It was a 95 M reg in the same colour as the OP. SEB3 chip (back in the days of actually 'chipping' cars!), a random Saab intercooler and a manual boost controller turned it into a flying machine. Love it - enjoy!

Finally remembered to change the plugs after 3 years/33k!

I'm talking about what you can legally store at home, not what you can buy

30l in a max of 2 containers I believe

This stuff is good https://www.shopnshine.co.uk/collections/fabric-cleaners-and-sealants/products/koch-chemie-pol-star

It's 72k or 6 years (whichever comes first) If it hasn't been done, it needs doing ASAP.

Headlight washers aren't a testable item on pre september 2009 cars, so you are fine.

The inside pad is probably seized in the front calipers. Common issue on 197's and 200's

I use this myself https://www.shopnshine.co.uk/koch-chemie-pol-star

You can apply that logic to many things in life, but if you worried about everything that 'could' happen you'd never leave the house!

Can't help with that, never owned one! lol

Something like this? http://www.gsparkplug.com/4-cyl-ht-ignition-lead-kit-3x-mtrs-cable-4x-plug-caps-terminals-covers.html

Unless it's changed in recent MOT updates then I understand it as follows: if fitted and connected (but not working) - it's a fail. If fitted but not connected its an advisory. Although the tester isn't allowed to check if the light is connected so it should always be a pass and advise really.