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Maybe a case of not seeing the forest for the trees, just never thought a shock could make such a knock unless it was going over bumps. I've got a spare cup set I'll swap to anyway while the sachs are off so it'll be easy to find out anyway. Cheers.

Garage found a tie road had a decent amount of play in it but replacing it hasn't stopped the knock. They couldn't find anything else. Is there a chance a shagged top mount could be the culprit? Looks like my sachs dampers are needing refurbed so when they come off I'll be able to see. Edit...

Would separate polls for track and daily duties make more sense given the massive dry bias anyone wanting track tyres would have?

Long story short, I have a rusty rear wing in my Boxster and once the rust is removed I don't want it to come back. Are there any recommended body shops around this area preferably (but will travel a bit for the right person in Scotland) that are willing and able to properly cut the rusty...

Any thoughts then?

Haven't got it in the garage yet but I did notice the sound as I switched off the engine the other day so that screams engine mount to me. They were replaced last year so could it just be a case of them needing moved/realigned somewhat?

182 Trophy. Wheels seem to be good anyway.

Clio, no M5 any more sadly!

Most notable at lower speeds and in 2nd/3rd, don't have to accelerate hard, just slightly and when I come off the pedal there's a very slight delay (<1s) then a light knock that appears to be from the front right. Engine mounts and gearbox mounts are all pretty new.

Well I wasn't sure if you had the exact same blades. Seems odd I should have to use so much force, much more than just a jiggle.

With that sort of angle shown in the 3rd photo? Something is going to break first.

To show what I mean

So is one of yours essentially just hooked onto the arm without the plastic clip to retain it? It had crossed my mind but wasn't sure how secure it would be if the retaining clip broke off.

I think there's a misunderstanding here. The bend in the wiper arm on the car physically seems to prevent fitment. You pop the top of the wiper blade open and slide it over the wiper arm but the bend in the wiper arm doesn't let you hook it in as the bit you popped open on the wiper blade is...

AR21U http://www.wiperblades.co.uk/renault-clio-years-1998-to-2005/bosch-aerotwin-ar21u-and-bosch-aerotwin-ar21u-twin-pack-wiper-blades/

How on earth are these meant to fit with the bend in the wiper arm getting in the way? I bought these as they're listed for the car but I swear something is going to break before the thing mounts.

Anyone use the 87W XL ones and can offer a comparison with Goodyear Eagles with regards to how the feel with stiffer sidewalls?

Ah good news! It's getting rear discs and pads shortly so I can mention to the garage.

I'll keep that in mine if I need fronts done cheers. What's the story regarding rear caliper seal kits with these? Can find plenty options to buy fronts but struggling with rears. Despite both rear calipers being replaced by the previous owner 2 years ago, my O/S/R brake pad is about half the...

Yeah true, I forgot they were pricier than you'd think. I found these Brembo ones for the front that look good value FWIW- https://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/renault/renault-clio-mk2/brakes/renault-clio-mk2-brembo-front-brake-kit-road-use-2-0-16v-172-182-renaultsport.html?___SID=U

What's the latest on the best place to source OEM discs? These discs and pads for under £100- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281077355493?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Seems pretty good to me but I'm sure I've seen folk in the past quoting really cheap costs for these...

Tried this and it hasn't made a difference.

Nor I, think you need to be a paid member.

Still need to get round to taking the steering wheel off, keep putting it off.

Yeah I'd appreciate that thanks. I should be going to have a look at a car in Arbroath in a couple of weeks or so too so at least I'll have a good frame of reference now.

Cheers but it was more to compare the actual shifting action of the gear lever.

Still having bother with my gearshift despite removing the Yanoo lever (3rd to 4th feels crap and inconsistent) and I'm not sure if the linkage is standard or not. The garage seemed to say everything was fine but there is still something not right. Looking to compare it with a 100% standard one...

Again, can anyone help with the actual gear linkage parts required? I've replaced the gear lever for standard and it's infinitely better but 3rd to 4th can still be inconsistent. This is really starting to grate. I can find a diagram alone but trying to find a diagram and all the parts listed...

Thanks for the replies I shall report back whenever I get round to checking.

Easiest way to remove the air bag alone?