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Looks mean with the tyre/wheel combo and sunstrip

I actually dont mind doing wiring jobs now, its stripping back all the tape and what not thats crap!

Mine are similar in that they are different. Im not keen on it, the actual overall length of the shocks are different.

Because the shock bodies are different thats why ;)

Looks pretty high. In the air you compress the helper spring until it is fully compressed, thats your max ride height.

Thanks mate, yeah Im less over whelmed with finding these sort of problems now because I have a better understanding of each system and what could be wrong. Still takes time.. Solid nylon rack bushes coming from france should be here this week.

@frayz I have a gut feeling that something needs looking at with my asts. Rears were sent for refurb and re valve to higher springs not long ago, but one of the casings had to be replaced and its a shorter body than the other one. I think somethings happened I dont know, loads of new clunks from...

I will, just a complete overhaul couple more things to do first.

Could be, Its making random clicks. Probably on its way out.

My ideal clio 182 would be one thats not falling apart, doesnt create new knocks and creaks every drive and has fault proof wiring. Of course, this would never happen

No washer jets front or rear, reverse light not working. I know theres a fuse that covers a few of these but the starter works so not sure what it could be?

I mean make sure you dont crush the gear linkage putting the subframe back as you cant just jack the subframe right back up.

The lines on the rack that feed fluid to itself can be a bit stubborn so soak them, I had one round a while back, got it with vice grips and heat in the end.

I just realised the pas lines, I think you have to twist the rack around because one of them is not a swivel fitting. Drop the subframe with the lines still attached to the rack but disconnected from rez and pas pump. I think this will be the slightly less painful method. Reason I would prefer...

Easier is subjective, more work and more time yeah but less fiddly. As I said, rack out in 8 minutes with subframe on, on a lift more like 4 (if doing it in anger 😁)

Bigger bar, stronger gun!

Dont see why it cant. You dont need to remove the subframe to remove the rack btw.

I wouldnt make the job more difficult by leaving the rack in place. Albeit mine is manual and no pipes, I can take it out in 8 mins on axle stands. 16mm flexible ratchet spanner and swivel attachments for bottom bolts with impact gun, easy peasy Also I think I saw a full kit for sale on the...

Id like that if you could link it mate?

Take bolt out then remove column, turn wheel so is straight with wheels then put back, there’s plenty of splines to do this, if it’s out a hair then just sort with alignment

Makes putting the column in much easier as you fit the lower part and pinch bolt first then the motor

Epas column is detachable, allen head holding lower joint

@Eddie555 around 310-320 both rear and front right side it was hard to tell.

What’s this on yours? If it’s same as the cup then it’s just bad luck, at least rule it out

It’s a whole degree out. It should be 3.3 How do you know the previous owner didn’t have a wack and replace the subframe but used a 172 one?

Thanks for the write up, I understand about the rc kit and anti dive now. About the scrub radius that it changes with suspension travel, and that the camber bolts would change the 'path' it takes, for example it might have been more linear before but now its progressive. Just a thought.

@Mbeau Was breaking a FF 182 and not to far from you, not sure if he has a subframe but it might be worth it to rule things

Ph1 subframe