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In many cases if you fire up spotify, or even YouTube, on your phone when it's connected, the head unit will play that back.
Ultimately, it's just an elaborate jack-plug, even bluetooth
We set rules of doing it all in time trial because that way you've got fixed conditions.
Also you dont get tyre wear or fuel usage so levels the playing field, lap after lap.
It's all good chap
it sure does,I'm a PS4 person. Cycle through the ghost options.
My Personal Best is the option I use..... .For the 2 valid laps I've managed to complete. (cutting the penultimate corner seems to be my stock party trick)
Each corner comes with about a second of extra time to make if you can nail it properly.
The mountain and forest sections are so different too. It's another reason I love the place, you've got to be legitimately good.
Which I, quite clearly, am not.
I love Cadwell.
But cannot put a lap together, at all.
Apart from when I do my "never change gear" laps. (most of the circuit is 3rd gear, other than 2nd on the forest hairpin)
Seriously, every single bend is a challenge. I am this s**t
I think my registered fastest lap includes several trips...
might be battery, yeah, it should be 100% charged immediately.
Take more notice of the dash lights and report back with what they are actually doing, they might point some of CS's more technical types to a possible answer
yep, that'll happen.
I'm currently working out how to keep the Mazda insured when the next car turns up.... If you register as a limited company you can get a trade policy? ;)
It's a racing game, not a Fast/Furious/NFS snapback-vaping drift-king simulator.
That said, I leave all the stabilisers on when I play Project Cars, because on a pad there is no hope of being able to meter out fine amounts of throttle/brake/corrective lock to keep an Indycar on the grey around...
'Ello
So.
Firstly, that little sub will be alright, you do want to get a good high RMS output though, especially if you've got one of those subarus that go BLUBLUBLUBLUBLUB loudly.
And yes, the plug-in amp is just to do the door speakers. It goes between the car loon and the head unit using...
If you just change your headunit and dont applyt an amplifier, your stock speakers will work fine.
The subwoofer addition, even a little underseat one, will allow you to filter out any bass to the speakers and that will free them up to make better "mids and highs". Going from previous...
No worries.
Mini-amp
A double-DIN nav
or
A decent Single-DIN and a cubby box
Sub for the boot
or
Sub for under your seat
The hardest bit will be fitting the subwoofer because it'll involve actual wires, I had a bunch of Essex boys descend on the Mazda to fit mine