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You bought it then mate. Still looks tidy from when i last saw it.

Ahh right, that's what it reminded me of from my SGS one too.

Looks like Euro air line fitting.

As Darren says, you've probably got more chance of plaiting fog. Is yours damaged?

I run Redline PS fluid in mine and it seems to be a bit more resistant to boiling.

Test the alternator and battery.

Aye, briefly yeah. Was very clean.

Got a link?

Yeah well worth it with a trade card. I've got the 300 model (60-300Nm) and it definitely feels better than the previous gen i upgraded from.

The new Halfords Advanced ones are good, more of an accurate scale setting compared to the previous gen that went up in 10's. Get an idea of what torque values you'll use the most, as they tend to be most accurate in their mid range setting. (although the calibration sheet that came with mine...

You have to go mad to burn through with a DA tbh, you'll be fine.

Either that or a harder pad. What pads are you using? If going super aggressive and want to be safe, just short cycle the polishing sets, 2-3 passes and then wipe off and assess.

All ph2's are SMI racks. Ph1 were TRW I think it was.

I wet vac my Corbeau seats. Different material to the Pole Positions, but it cleans them up well.

If only they did torque angle as well, they'd be a great option then for mechanics.

The dial will get to middle at around 40-50c, doesn't mean it's fully up to temp ~82c

C4 to your door no beef no more

It's a rubber coated metal washer. No idea why it's coated though.

You could probably make one or get one cut. It's about the same thickness as the big top washer.

There's a black rubber coated washer that goes on first, this was mine.

Double nut the stud and wind them out, might need a bit of heat to soften the loctite.

The disc is the hub on the rear.

Might want to check but you could have got away it, when that happens it can destroy the abs sensors.

Happens all the time, you won't be the last to do it 😂

It's a 1.2 so it doesn't need to do anything fancy. You could probably reset learned fuel trim values, but that would need Renault CAN Clip I would imagine.

They don't need coding.

Yeah they're just subframe braces, fine to remove.

Fair bit of work there! Hopefully it gets a new rear quarter and done properly.

If it's 100% track use you could go without or look into some of that heat reflective stick on blanket material from Funk Motorsport.

That sounds like the one/s we're on about. The old guy, the lad and the kid.