Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Yeah i imagine you're running a bit less boost and slightly lower turbine speeds. Out of interest, have you measured your ACTs yet?
If not, you can do this quite simply with a k type thermocouple under the hose and plugged into a suitable multimeter. This you can do pre & post intercooler and...
You don't really see many folk doing it that way these days. I know back in the Cossie days (showing my age here) we used to run them. The likes of Pro Alloy, Pace, AH fabrications, etc all make them, not sure if Airtec do?
Then it becomes a bit a pain packaging it. I've seen some lovely setups...
Never bought into the who alloy rad thing unless its got a proper high performance core. WRC/F1 type from the likes of Marston.
I had a Marston WRC cored intercooler for the Impreza and it was different gear compared to everything else id seen on a road car before.
A new OEM one will be more...
Honestly it wouldn't make a blind bit of difference.
I know its apples and oranges, but i specifically had a system made for my impreza that deliberately pointed the exhaust down to the ground to help with trackday noise and keep flames away from the bumper.
3" from front to back with 2...
Classic example of a car that will be sought after due to no doubt is super low miles yet will have more engine wear due to never properly being heat cycled.
The biggest issue is moisture internally from lack of effective heat cycling due to short journeys. Paint will to some effect help the exterior providing its suitable for the temperatures.
I do 50 miles a day and my original 182 exhaust was still plenty healthy after 70k miles and 8 years. So...
Properly designed exhaust system of appropriate diameter shouldn’t have and negative effects on performance. How does it differ from what you have already?
Just exits behind the bumper as opposed to through it?
The trouble is, only when you own one of these cars do you realise miles mean nothing and condition/history is everything.
Every other lemming only looks at mileage as a sign of a car that’s done nothing must be good. 🤷🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
I think you’d be surprised at the difference with a proper rear setup. Yes the rear is light and yes the weight transfer moves to the front. But I dare say a lot less weight than a standard car due to the increase in spring rates you're undoubtedly running. So the pitch of the car will be...
Perhaps you should try something with more bite. I’d say you’re missing out in free performance improvement there.
I know when I went from having 360mm AP 6 pots on the Impreza on the front only with standard brembo rears to fitting 330mm 4 pot AP rears the difference was significant in terms...
Thanks for the comprehensive reply George. As for noise, I’m not that bothered. Like you I’ve run performance pads in every car so I’m used to it. Having said that I’ve never had RS29s squeal in any of my cars. The Cayman squeals if I brake when reversing oddly lol.
Dust, again, I don’t mind...
Latest tinker has been giving the heat shields a jolly up.
Nothing fancy, just removed, scrubbed with degreaser, 2 coats of Zinc primer and then 2 coats of VHT silver. I made up some large load spreaders with some spare Nimbus sheet and refitted with new hardware. Far from show standard but a...
70nM front 40nM rear as specified by Josh Cook as this is apparently what he ran on his own road car. I have 12 clicks of adjustment on these and the front is currently set at 7 and the rear at 6. It’s pretty firm for a road car but changes direction and corners lovely. I may go slightly softer...
Thanks so much Steve. Although I’d say your rebuild is one of the most inspiring and comprehensive threads on here. Great to see so many of these starting to be saved as opposed to cut up.