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Part number is 7701476557 for a genuine clutch kit on a 182. https://frogjammotorsport.co.uk/products/genuine-renault-clutch-kit-renault-clio-172-182-mk2-rs-7701476557 Go genuine.

Cadwell is ace for Clios. I'd be up for going back again.

The correct part number for your 182 is 8200186294, but the information on Autodoc seems incorrect. Here are the relevant part numbers: Renault: 8200186294 (Stark: SKWSS-0350067) Renault: 7700411747 (Stark: SKWSS-0350095) According to Renault, both part numbers are for cars with ESP, but only...

You can’t beat a bit of advice from the older generation, or boomers as you like to call them 😂 Car looks mean. I’m going back to headlight blanks as well.

Bolts for what? Just drop me a DM with what you need and i'll fire over part numbers, and alternatives.

Just take your time fella. I've acquired a ton of parts to fit mine lol Just need to find the time to fit them all and update the thread. Amazing little cars.

When I was looking into Stark a while back, before I bought the rear sensors, I noticed the STARK CEO had a ridex.com email address. Probably just a cheaper alternative like Motrio or Value Parts as they're now known.

I used to pay the K Tec Tax but discovered those were Bosch equivalents so got them from DMFX in Darlington. Bosch seems to be out of stock and I couldn't find them in their catalogue, but Stark does them. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/stark/7856865 The part number is 8200186294 for reference...

I'm at Croft next Monday. BTCC was there at the weekend. Yikes!

This seems to be the trend with older cars, unfortunately. A combination of demand, opportunity, and interest means these parts will be manufactured by a variety of companies. I think TRISCAN are a Danish company with a German manufacturing base. Better than being made in China though lol

My two rear sensors are made by Stark. Relatively new to the market but high-quality parts made in Germany.

The synchronised looks at 40 seconds in 😂 👏

Have you thoroughly cleaned the throttle body, including inside around the butterfly valve? Carbon deposits or mechanical wear can cause erratic signals and limp mode. If you have access to a decent diagnostic reader that can display live data or a multimeter, you can check the voltage output...

Understood. Be prepared to spend.

Welcome to the 182 club😃 With old cars like these, it’s understandable that you might get a few drops of oil. Depending on how they’ve been maintained, most will weep over time. Oil generally leaks from a number of places. A small list would include the gearbox selector seal, crankshaft oil...

I used some mole grips to bend the metal back, then slowly refined it using a metal block and a dolly hammer. It’s not perfect and still plays with my OCD 😂 But it’s straight and rust free.

If you take the skirts off, then put some time into straightening the jacking points, it’ll all go back together nicely and look straight. The drivers side jacking point on mine wasn’t the best and looked like yours. Looks pretty straight now.

Yeah. I sent Yokohama my settings, and a picture of the tyre and they fired back with what they recommended. The car is spot on now. That tear in the tyre was from locking up at the bottom of Mansfield at Cadwell. Code brown moment because I was completely oblivious to the fact they were done...

Stick your reg number in here - https://aftermarket.zf.com/en/aftermarket-portal/our-catalog/search-by-vehicle/#/ I put KV52RYX which is a 172 CUP and it didn't list Lemforder or TRW (same) ball joints for it.

Just looking at the catalogue now. https://aftermarket.zf.com/en/aftermarket-portal/our-catalog/search-by-vehicle/#/article/28892+03?languageID=4&brandID=14,22,32,35,68,126,161,294,8888&countryID=GB

Cups are (CB1N), those appear to be for the (CB0M) which is the Phase 1 non-cup 172. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lemforder/1267010 Not sure if they're different but i can check properly later if nobody replies beforehand.

It'll be different on a Meg but when I was running -3.4 degrees camber on the 182 with 3mm toe out each side, and 30 psi front and 32 psi rear, I got half a track day. I was advised by Darkside and Yokohama to run higher tyre pressures and less camber. So I'm now running - 2.5 degrees, 35 psi...

Perfect, he'll give you the proper data on them then. I got mine from Darkside and have pre-ordered a few more.

I've done 4 track days on mine now and they hardly look used. All dry days, bar the last one which had standing water at times. I'd be lucky to get 3 on my other Clio track car, so I've probably got the new car set up bang on. I reckon I'll get a full season out of them at this rate 🤞

A052 is the best tyre I've used in the Yokohama range. as James says, a different level. A050s are marginally better as they have a reinforced carcass and are ideal for out-and-out dry weather. 52s can handle damp and dry situations, making it less risky to rock up to a track day without the...

They look as cheap as chips as well. I'll have to drop you a message after CSF and pick your brains on what to look for. Have fun!

I've seen a few at races. I've always had an SUV but I fancy a nice comfy car for my fat arse lol

Let us know how that pulls the trailer, Kyle. I've been thinking of getting another trailer and a similar car so I can daily it and use it for towing the Clio to circuits.

I hope the weather is kind and everybody has an awesome weekend.