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Beefy springs and the R26R and DCi's have a different pot depth on the flywheel. When you need it for? If you can wait till Tuesdays I can get you the correct part number if you pm me your reg.

189re1090 is for the R26.R clutch and slave or high bhp DCi engines iirc.

Bodge and Cut out what you don't want or buy the propa tools to remove the pins from the plugs. Buy an omex 600 and semi assembled loom and do the rest. Or get omex to make you a full loom email them. Puremotorsport can organise DTA to make you a loom. Is your car a track car?

1200 quid 😂 CamMoreRon on here can. Building the mental 205 on here. Beanie sport can but won't, EFi maybe but he's probably so busy too.

Quick rack is good by the way :up:

£1200 included fully heat-shrinked harness with decent quality wire, spec 55 for the crank trigger / any other critical shielded circuits, and all the correct OEM connectors. I think 1200 is a fair price and that's just a quote, by the time you add in other details like fuse boxes, switches...

Looks s**t currently Mil spec connect would be headache lol

To have a complete loom done properly I've been quoted £1200 plus! That's propa spec wiring, wrapped, OEM plugs. That was with AIM dash and only brake lights! And not too many wanna get involved in making them as looms are so time consuming

Not very mobile a compressor tho.

No didn't remove plugs or anything. Just had the loom pulled over the passenger side wing and started rerouting the loom and hoses etc. Got a picture of yours?

Fair play that is a bargain. I don't mind paying for propa stuff and the KTR rail is defo well made!

Cup racer rail is cool. I couldn't find one so had to get a Ktec one which I prefer now as it's more stealth lol

I had to do this when I fitted my RS2 inlet. I stripped all the insulation tape off and all the plastic s**t, relocated the plugs I needed to and hid wiring like the injector loom underneath the rail, then just put random bits of tape around sections of loom so they didn't flop around and move...

Yeah defo is, I've got a electric probe that I've used to supply 12volts to the pump and the pump works no problem but still won't start and will only crank 3 times still. Guess there's no spark either. Yeah I'm sure brute force will help :laughing:

I've quite a few bits of Milwaukee now and it's really really good stuff.

Clio still hasn't fired into life. March was the last time it started and ran. Starting to get withdrawal symptoms from track days. Lol Anyway I've swapped the looms over and swapped relays for new items and still have no joy. So I'm looking at all other options now as I've had enough of it...

What's the flat floor like? And what's it like to drive with?

I use 10W60 Castro oil as it upped my oil pressure by 7psi.

I've had this fault for about 5 months now and still ain't fixed 🙈 Good luck, it can be so many kings causing the fault.

Look at Sassa roll cages one eBay. They do a Full bolt in cage. I paid £500 for one about 2 years ago. Think they've gone up slightly tho.

Congratulations! What you doing for BMW?

:smile:Inspiration taken from this

Ok cool. Interested to hear your review. I've nevered had anything from compbrake fitted very well.

Watching this. Top work :up:

Have you finished the servo delete/pedal box conversion? If so what's the pedal like? and any pics of it fitted to the brake pedal?

£200 ono

I run RS2, PMS exhaust mani, GrpN timing and custom intake setup and made really good torque from low down and holds peak torque from about 2500-2700 to the redline. Chris at EFi was really impress with the low down torque and how it held it but. Also said the timing was holding it back, he...

Not sure yet lol What pins need bridging?

I've got this issue, I have no spark or fuel pump prime tho:sob:

@Tomo3292 Could I get a copy of the diagrams by any chance please? I have a immobiliser issue