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No not really, would need to disassemble and get better pictures/or part numbers.

Yes it can be done as I have it the other way round (B14 inserts in cup racer bodies) Cant remember the part number but cup racer inserts will have a circlip groove around the top of the damper body to secure the spring top hat.

Track rods are different as well, personally I wouldn't bother converting to cup parts other than the wishbones for extra castor. If at a later date you bend a sub frame then yeah replace it with a cup one as why not but for the gains currently I would save your time/money.

My HiSpec R114 kit with 300x32mm discs fits under OZ f1's and 2118's with no spacers and plenty of clearance. if you want something that will definitely go under with no messing that kit will. But bear in mind they are a race calliper with no dust seals.

Screw in studs only come loose if fitted incorrectly, its hugely important to make sure both hub and stud are 100% free of grime and grease. I run a tap through each thread spraying brake cleaner to get them fully clean, then use a high quality stud lock like Loctite to make sure they never come...

Me too! they are hardy little buggers even when basically flat they will start the car, perfect for a competition car. I have one that is nearly 10 years old and still going strong! They are AGM so deliver the beans down to something like 80% discharge. I run twin batteries in my car for a bit...

It does but it's of a different design, I may be wrong but looks like a ph1 subframe.

Pretty sure it's a PH1 172 subframe Ian.

I'd imagine this works quite well but I've been shimming my mounts out with rubber gasket for years, costs next to nothing and no noticeable difference in vibrations or over stiffness. Makes a nice difference on a tired old mount. My personal preference is poly dog bone, shimmed new standard...

The issue is finding someone who actually knows what they are doing, that's usually someone fairly competent that has done one before or a very methodical conscientious mechanic/diyer that is capable of understand how the engine works and the process of carry out the job. It's very easy to...

They aren't really designed to go on a panel as curved as the clio bootlid, just fit bonnet pins much easier and looks better than a distorted/cracked gel boot lid with aerocatches. any other thing you could do as your boot is glas is trim them down and glass them in from the back so they are...

I think my 3 would say different unless I've just been really unlucky! The clutch does see around 40 hard starts a year though most of those within a two day period with 10 minutes of absolute abuse each time on hot rally tyres, but I'm only running 195hp and I don't dump the clutch other than...

Check your plugs, if you have one dodgy injector its likely that the cylinder will be running lean. I've actually had it on one engine where the end of the plug was getting eaten up due to detonation.

Doubt its anything to do with the pops and bangs map, if the engines seen a lot of sustained revs in its life then a valve will likely drop at some point. Hence why everyone who races these engines fits Supertech valves for a bit of security. Had the exact same thing happen on the engine in my...

Mud flaps are gash, 99% of rally car owners if given the chance would rip them of take a dump on them and then set them on fire. Totally ruin the look of your car!

Don't bother with any of the electric battery isolators, its not uncommon for them to fail and cause you issues. If you want an electric one a lot of people just get a manual isolator and hook it up to a central locking solenoid these days.

I know this is one hell of a thread revival but has anyone else had this issue with helix paddle clutches? I've had 3 do this to me now and i'm beginning to think these clutches are utter dog s**t. I'm pretty confident that a pressure plate should not go concave and they definitely aren't...

Honestly id do yourself a favour and not mess around with the K4M you will spend endless amounts of money and still have less power than a stock F4R, there is a reason the Sodemo 1600 motors cost something stupid like 50k. Drop an F4R in with some ITB's and you will still be pretty competitive...

Would be good to see how much you can get them for, I need to do a but more searching just not had time to look yet.

Hi, Does anybody know a reasonably price source for Arrow or Carrillo connecting rods? would be for an F4R motor. Regards, Mike

Not from the factory, none of the cars had VIN numbers are were not type approved for road use. I put my car through the equivalent of an SVA here, as far as I know its the only if not one of very few properly road legal cup cars in the UK. Everyone else just does a dodgy and uses a log book...

I'm not even sure you could put the Sadev lobro joints on the Renault shaft, probably a completely different spline. Depending on what diff the box comes with I may have some shafts that will fit. Have you got any pictures of the box?

Expensive winter for me: - New passenger seat as current one is out of date - Get front discs skimmed - Weld in new seat rails - Have cross door bar made and weld in - Fit new sequential gearbox - Fit one piece valves/new cambelt - Fit softer front springs - Full geo alignment And to top it...

You will more than likely need to measure up and have new driveshaft's made for the car.

I get Elf fully synthetic 5w40 in 20l drums from my Renault dealer for £35, you would be surprised how cheap you can get half decent oil for when it doesn't come in fancy packaging..

Why not get your licence etc, have a go at hill climbing and sprints and go from there. Racing isn't cheap and if you cant work on the car yourself or have friends willing to do it for you then your going to rack up costs pretty quick. It wouldn't surprise me if it costs you 15-17k for a season...

I don't know why everyone bangs on about maintenance with the gripper, get one with fairly mild preload and ramps. Change the oil fairly frequently and I doubt you will ever have any reason to open the box up unless you are racing it are planning to do 100k miles on it. There are loads of cars...

Thanks guys, any idea of what the torque curve is like with them on ITB?

Hi, I've had a good search through the forum but cant find much conclusive evidence to my answer. I currently have Jenvey ITB's on my car, 48mm tapers with 120mm trumpets. I am looking for some camshafts to up the torque/HP a bit, I am looking for something that will still give relatively good...

I will stick with the later head with small ports then, not going to start buying new heads as this motor only needs to last me a couple of years before I buy a decent one.