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Your be fine with the shocks and dampers as long as the front are the 54mm bolt spacing. The cup lower arm will also fit fine I'm not too sure on the front roll bar.. ph2 cup is thicker but it also has a different subframe to the ph1. The mountings maybe the same...could always change to ph2...

Get the brake kit into the fog light holes and see how the ds2500 get on. Getting air into the calipers helps enormously. There are cheaper alternatives to the eBay kit.

Yep that was my old one.. miss it 😢 This is what happened to it

I've put my old engine in a new(to me) shell. Hopefully haven't lost too many horses..never know may make more :grin: See you in the morning!

Looks like a pretty good spec all ready :up: certainly looks to nice to track:wink: Any more plans for it over winter ?

I got a mk2 golf/jetta 50mm alloy rad, had to weld on new fixing posts as to get the inlet and outlet pipes the right side...it's upside down I'd go with the pms option now as it's just as cheep...probably better too :weary:

So I can't play/use my own car in multiplayer? I just want to race my A class Sierra Cosworth but all I can race is a Lamborghini? Anyone know what's going on with the multiplayer? Cheers

Just got in.. I pre ordered the disc and have 35.02GB to download! Only done 10% in 20mins Is there any point in actually having a disc these days? Anyway looking forward to the game :smiley:

How'd the engine turn out ? Enjoying it yet?

Yes I've done it.. mainly for the bigger wheel bearing hoping they will last longer on track than the smaller breaking in the 54mm hubs.

My Mrs Audi Q3 has stop/start.. I don't mind it but the bloody thing never does it! We've had it just over a year and I think it's done it twice in all that time.

Love your attention to detail...I've been following your build for a while and must admit it's my fav on here :up::up: How comes your using the jenvey throttle linkage instead of the pms linkage ? Cheers

I take it that is a bespoke setup your running? Is it for under a 15" wheel..standard rear clio caliper ? Looks great :up::up:

I'd be looking for a 182 cup..more power out the box..better wheel hubs..wishbones...more metal on rear beam to stop flex..wider track. Just a better Clio to start with. Try and find one that already has some mods can work out cheaper.

Great wrench, I've had mine years and not lost a wheel. Definitely keep the tube..you can store different sockets in it too :up:

200T will walk this...#launchcontrolforthewin

Oops..didn't realise you haven't tracked it yet..get out there and see how you go.

More focused brake pad... brake ducts ? A diff would make the most difference in handling but is £1500 at least Have you corner weighed the car since coilovers? There is the roll center correction kit available ? Unfortunately you've done most of the cheapish modifications.. taking weight out...

You will have some sort of map to run the car which will be limited to 4K-5k rpm. Blast round for 500 or so miles, then go back to mapper for the proper map and oil as the oil your have in it from the start will be a mineral base to help with running in. Obviously follow engine builds...

I had this at my last trackday...high rev range changing from 4th to 3rd. Every off putting. If I didn't rush the box I could easily select 3rd. I've used the pms shifter and box in a different shell and it was fine so I'm thinking the linkage isn't quite lined up ( even though I marked it...

Good luck with the swap :up::up: Subscribed

Another difference in hubs is the 182 cup hub has a larger wheel flange (not sure on terminology) compared to all the other 1*2 hubs Only know this as I bought a pair of alloy brake bells that wouldn't fit the 182 cup hubs, had to get the flange machined down to the standard hub size.

Should of said yes as the box section would've strengthened the jacking points.

Is all that in preparation for engine mods too ? Lovely looking clio this one.. Good luck with your turn in the #cliosport.netslut :wink:

Thanks @TimR26 for sorting this out again :up::up: I can make both dates.

Had to write something on your thead again as I've stopped receiving notifications of your epic saga of #165. Good luck :up:

Put me down.. Would like to see what the new car/old engine is putting out :up::up:

Thanks @STEVE.M and @JamesBryan This car is pretty new to me.. The jack took the head off the screw at the rear jacking point causing the whole skirt to drop as in the picture and the blocks were like that when it all happened? I'm thinking the screw at the rear was holding the whole skirt up...

So I've managed to jack my side skirt off. What I don't get is why most of triangular blocks are not attached to the body work? Any advise very much appreciated....and you can say I'm a c@@k!

One of the reasons is the power steering fluid boils/over flows from the bottle when on track. It can drip on to the front nearside tyre