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I stripped my throttle body right down , took out the flap and removed the shaft , there is a seal on both ends , I doubt that will allow air to be passed .
I used wet and dry very fine paper with the oil and rotated the shaft where it would locate in the body , doing this removes any crap and...
I am using HLT Grand Prix edition with a Wifi dongle .
Prior to that I used a Bluetooth dongle with a jailbroken 4s phone and it was the same , no info out of it at all except battery volts.
I will look into it further at some point but don't have time ATM .
Doesn't work well on my Ph1
Considering an RSTuner gets all the info out of the ECU - this doesn't seem to work for me coupled with HLT.
And I don't want to spend any more on an app that's not going to function because my cars OBD is not supported.
I think these really only work well on PH2...
I agree , turbo comes with its own set of issues . If your not a mechanic , it can get costly keeping it tip top.
Low boost kits are available from engine dynamics .
That looks absolutely shocking . Looks like a shopping trolley bar , re-worked with side skirts that bolt to the OE seatbelt moveable point .
That wouldn't hold s**t in an accident imo
The Heater box is secured with 2 bolts which are covered by the heater blower motor . The motor needs removing first along with the wipers and then it'll all come out so you can sort the issue you have .
I would use a cup heater blower as its smaller and easier to fix if it needs a motor later...
The sole purpose of the conversion for me was that I wanted rid of the pump , so in my mind, when I would be out on track I wouldn't have to worry about the pump shitting itself and ruining my engine .
As said before - ditch it.
With regard to wanting to run epas and retain the air con ...
I was in the same predicament.
I was running a PMS a/c delete kit and contemplated getting the idler wheel to replace the pump wheel. It worked out to be £100. So with that in mind , I sourced a cup bracket and alternator , and sold my PMS bracket and so it cost me nowt really , just removal...
I take it the standard setup is still in place and standard aux belt setup still ?
I run a cup bracket setup and no pump at all . That's the best way poss imo.
Steering rack bungs in and looped along the body
Pins 26 and 56 are fault finding diag lines from ECU to OBD plug . So i'd say try and hunt for something that communicates first on those wires before spending any money.
@Flam686
I run Harry's Lap Timer and I can't get jack s**t out of the OBD dongle.
The only data bus wires in the plug i found is for airbag , air con , abs , engine.
All these are direct single wires into the control units .
I'll have a look at the wiring diagram when I get a mo
Sorry guys , didn't see replies . Yes battery volts is all ok , basically it has run in the past and ran for a couple of months as it was mapped and everything . Then it started messing about .
So the mapper had to install a new map on it as it was corrupt , and that got it going . All was well...
The relay your after is the one at the back on the right . So it's closest to the wing .
Underneath is yellow wires , a thin grey wire and 2 larger pinkish wires that feed the clutch .
If the ECU doesn't see any gas pressure IE the system is empty it won't send an earth signal down the small...